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BR-112014031423-B1 - Cosmetic composition and cosmetic method for the manufacture and/or care of keratin-based materials.

BR112014031423B1BR 112014031423 B1BR112014031423 B1BR 112014031423B1BR-112014031423-B1

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR USE THEREOF. The invention discloses a cosmetic composition for keratin-based materials, especially skin and lips, hair and nails. A cosmetic method for treating keratin-based materials using said composition is also disclosed. More specifically, the cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof, and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g and a size expressed as the volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 micrometers.

Inventors

  • Haiquan LU
  • Yue Wang
  • Xinrong LI
  • Jerome Senee

Assignees

  • L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date
20260310
Application Date
20120621

Claims (15)

  1. 1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; - at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle having a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g and a size expressed as the volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm; and - at least one TiO2 being totally or partially surface treated with fluorinated surface agents.
  2. 2. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax contains at least one palmitic acid, at least one stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.
  3. 3. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises 6% to 18% by weight, preferably 7% to 10% by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. 4. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 1200 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 800 m2/g.
  5. 5. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size expressed as the volume average diameter ranging from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm, and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.
  6. 6. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size expressed as the volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm, preferably from 5 to 15 μm.
  7. 7. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a density ranging from 0.04 g/cm3 to 0.10 g/cm3, preferably from 0.05 g/cm3 to 0.08 g/cm3.
  8. 8. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3, and even better, from 15 to 40 m2/cm3.
  9. 9. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL/g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL/g, and even better, from 8 to 12 mL/g of particles.
  10. 10. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  11. 11. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  12. 12. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups; and palmitic acid, stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.
  13. 13. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the white pigment is selected from a group consisting of porous or non-porous, spherical or non-spherical pigment.
  14. 14. Cosmetic composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises at least one adjuvant selected from the group consisting of active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, acid modifiers (acids or bases), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, emulsifiers, glycerol fatty acid esters and sorbitan fatty acid esters, thickeners, gelling agents, and lipid vesicles.
  15. 15. Cosmetic method for making and/or caring for keratin-based materials, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15, to said materials.

Description

[001] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin-based materials, especially skin and lips, hair and nails. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin-based materials using said composition. [002] In the field of cosmetic compositions for skin care, the use of organic waxes that absorb sebum and perspiration is a known practice, to mattify the skin and/or optically smooth micro-reliefs and camouflage skin imperfections. [003] However, the use of these waxes is usually accompanied by a rough, dry feeling and a lack of comfort that is unacceptable to the user. In addition, the high concentration of the waxes leads to an unstable composition due to the increase in crystal size over time. [004] Fatty acids are also widely used as a mattifying agent because they make it possible to obtain a soft feel on the skin, but they must be used in a relatively high concentration to have the mattifying effect, which constitutes a restriction in the choice of texture, the stability of the composition, and also the cost of the formulation. [005] Therefore, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions that are mattifying and/or that make it possible to conceal imperfections in the skin, that have good cosmetic properties, in particular that are soft when applied, stable over time, and less restrictive in terms of cost. [006] The Applicant has found that this need can be met by combining in a composition, waxes chosen from acids having C16 to C18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof, and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. [007] More specifically, a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of: - at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; and - hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g and a size expressed as the volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm. [008] This mixture makes it possible to obtain compositions that are comfortable and soft to apply, having mattifying and soft-focus properties. It also satisfies the demand for stability over time. [009] Another material aspect of the present invention constitutes a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of: - at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; - hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g and a size expressed as the volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm; and - at least one white pigment. [0010] This mixture makes it possible to obtain a composition that is mattifying and soft-focus, having a brightening effect due to the reduction in the visibility of imperfections on the skin, while at the same time giving a bare skin appearance. [0011] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be any type of cosmetic composition such as a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a corrective product, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, an eyeliner, a mascara, a body makeup product, a skin tanning product, a care product such as a care cream, a tinted cream or a sun protection product, preferably a care product such as a care cream. [0012] The mixture of the invention is advantageously in the form of ice cream. [0013] Another subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic method for making and/or treating keratin-based materials comprising a step of applying a composition defined above to said materials. [0014] Hereafter, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range. Waxes: [0015] The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C (see for example Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Waxes" Uwe Wolfmeier et al.; http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/14356007.a28_103/pdf; published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a28_103; 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim; DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a28_103). [0016] In particular, waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point above 40°C without decomposition, especially a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C. [0017] According to one embodiment of the invention, the melt viscosity of the waxes should not exceed 10,000 mPa . s at 10 °C above the dropping point. [0018] The waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The latter may