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CN-117322697-B - Gridding two-piece shirt collar plate making method

CN117322697BCN 117322697 BCN117322697 BCN 117322697BCN-117322697-B

Abstract

The application relates to a gridding two-piece shirt collar making method, which comprises the steps of determining collar size and collar height size based on styles of two-piece shirts; the method comprises the steps of taking one half of the collar size as the collar width, forming a longitudinal line, a longitudinal line II, a longitudinal line III, a longitudinal line IV and a longitudinal line V according to the collar width, forming a transverse line III, a transverse line II, a transverse line III and a transverse line IV based on the rear collar height of the bottom collar and the rear collar height and the void volume of the surface collar, drawing a right collar template based on a grid diagram formed by the transverse line III, the transverse line II, the transverse line III, the transverse line IV, the longitudinal line II, the longitudinal line IV and the longitudinal line V, and forming a enterprise collar template of the two-piece shirt based on the symmetry of the right collar template and the left collar template. The application at least can solve the technical problems of high randomness and low accuracy of the enterprise-collar plate making method of the two-piece shirt in the prior art.

Inventors

  • GUO YAN
  • ZENG JINGLI
  • FAN YINGHUI
  • GU LIZHU

Assignees

  • 广东白云学院

Dates

Publication Date
20260505
Application Date
20231017

Claims (9)

  1. 1. A method of gridding a two-piece shirt collar plate, the method comprising: Determining collar size and collar height size based on the style of the two-piece shirt, wherein the collar height size comprises the back collar height of a bottom collar, the back collar height of a face collar and the void volume between the back collar height of the face collar and the back collar height of the bottom collar, the back collar height of the face collar and the void volume between the back collar height of the face collar and the back collar height of the bottom collar are respectively represented by a, b and c, wherein a=2.3-4 cm, b=a+0.8-1 cm and c=1-3 cm; Taking one half of the collar size as a collar width, and forming a longitudinal line, a longitudinal two line, a longitudinal three line, a longitudinal four line and a longitudinal five line according to the collar width, wherein the longitudinal line, the longitudinal two line, the longitudinal three line, the longitudinal four line and the longitudinal five line are equally divided into 4 parts in the longitudinal direction, the longitudinal line is a rear central line, and the longitudinal five line is a front central line; Forming a transverse line, a transverse second line, a transverse third line and a transverse fourth line based on the rear collar height of the bottom collar, the rear collar height of the face collar and the void volume, wherein the transverse first line is a collar bottom line auxiliary line, the transverse second line is a bottom collar upper mouth line auxiliary line, the transverse third line is a face collar upper mouth line auxiliary line, and the transverse fourth line is a face collar outer mouth line auxiliary line; Based on the grid patterns formed by the transverse line, the transverse two lines, the transverse three lines, the transverse four lines, the longitudinal one line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines and the longitudinal five lines, drawing a right collar template, and forming a rabbet collar template of the two-piece shirt based on the symmetry of the right collar template and the left collar template.
  2. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the drawing a right collar template based on a grid pattern formed by the transverse line, the transverse two lines, the transverse three lines, the transverse four lines, the longitudinal one line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines, and the longitudinal five lines comprises: And drawing a collar bottom line based on the transverse line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines and the longitudinal five lines, wherein d is extended rightwards along the transverse line, e is vertically upwards tilted to serve as a bottom collar mouth tilting point, the bottom collar mouth tilting point is connected with the longitudinal five points and is extended to the longitudinal four lines, the longitudinal four lines downwards take 1cm of points and are connected with the longitudinal three points, and the intersection point of the longitudinal four lines is connected with the longitudinal two points.
  3. 3. The method of claim 2, wherein d = 1.2-2 cm and e = 0.5-1 cm.
  4. 4. The method of claim 2, wherein d = 1.5cm and e = 0.5cm.
  5. 5. A method according to claim 3, wherein a = 3cm, b = 4cm, c = 3cm.
  6. 6. The method of claim 5, wherein the drawing a right collar template based on a grid pattern formed by the transverse line, the transverse two lines, the transverse three lines, the transverse four lines, the longitudinal one line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines, and the longitudinal five lines, further comprises: and drawing a bottom collar upper mouth line based on the horizontal two lines, the vertical three lines and the vertical four lines, wherein a collar bottom tilting point vertically upwards reaches the horizontal two lines, a 1cm point is taken, vertical three points are connected, and the vertical two points are connected with the intersection point of the vertical four lines.
  7. 7. The method of claim 1, wherein the drawing a right collar template based on a grid pattern formed by the transverse line, the transverse two lines, the transverse three lines, the transverse four lines, the longitudinal one line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines, and the longitudinal five lines, further comprises: Based on the transverse three lines, the longitudinal five lines and the upper neck line of the surface collar, 1.5cm points are taken below the longitudinal five lines, the longitudinal three points are connected, the longitudinal two points are connected with the intersection points of the longitudinal four lines, the longitudinal five lines horizontally move by 0.7cm left and right, and the bottom-surface collar threading points are fixed.
  8. 8. The method of claim 7, wherein the drawing a right collar template based on a grid pattern formed by the transverse line, the transverse two lines, the transverse three lines, the transverse four lines, the longitudinal one line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines, and the longitudinal five lines, further comprises: And drawing an out-of-plane neck line based on the transverse four lines, the longitudinal three lines and the longitudinal two lines, wherein the transverse four lines are connected with the collar attaching point at the bottom of the plane by 1cm to the right, the length is 6cm, the fixed collar corner point is taken, the longitudinal three points are 0.3cm downwards, and the out-of-plane neck line is a shoulder neck concave point, the left side is connected with the longitudinal 2 points, and the right side is connected with the collar corner point.
  9. 9. The method of claim 1, wherein the collar angle is one of a pointed collar, a right angle collar, and an obtuse angle collar; and forming a left collar template symmetrical to the right collar template by taking the longitudinal line as a symmetry axis.

Description

Gridding two-piece shirt collar plate making method Technical Field The application relates to clothing platemaking, in particular to a gridding two-piece shirt collar platemaking method. Background At present, the existing plate making method of the two-piece shirt collar is too general, so that a beginner and a person with unskilled technology are difficult to grasp the accuracy of the collar structure, secondly, the collar bottom line structure has the defects in principle, is inconsistent with the neck characteristics of a human body, the sewn shirt collar has the tight or empty quantity, the serviceability is poor, and finally, the relationship between the collar top line and the collar outer line is not accurately positioned, the randomness exists, and the plate making efficiency and quality are low. Disclosure of Invention The application aims to provide a gridding two-piece shirt collar making method which is used for at least overcoming the technical problems of high randomness and low accuracy of the two-piece shirt collar making method in the prior art. In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method of gridding a two-piece shirt collar making, the method comprising: Determining a collar size and a collar height size based on the style of the two-piece shirt, wherein the collar height size comprises a rear collar height of a bottom collar, a rear collar height of a face collar and a void volume between the rear collar height of the face collar and the rear collar height of the bottom collar; Taking one half of the collar size as a collar width, and forming a longitudinal line, a longitudinal two line, a longitudinal three line, a longitudinal four line and a longitudinal five line according to the collar width, wherein the longitudinal line, the longitudinal two line, the longitudinal three line, the longitudinal four line and the longitudinal five line are equally divided into 4 parts in the longitudinal direction, the longitudinal line is a rear central line, and the longitudinal five line is a front central line; Forming a transverse line, a transverse second line, a transverse third line and a transverse fourth line based on the rear collar height of the bottom collar, the rear collar height of the face collar and the void volume, wherein the transverse first line is a collar bottom line auxiliary line, the transverse second line is a bottom collar upper mouth line auxiliary line, the transverse third line is a face collar upper mouth line auxiliary line, and the transverse fourth line is a face collar outer mouth line auxiliary line; Based on the grid patterns formed by the transverse line, the transverse two lines, the transverse three lines, the transverse four lines, the longitudinal one line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines and the longitudinal five lines, drawing a right collar template, and forming a rabbet collar template of the two-piece shirt based on the symmetry of the right collar template and the left collar template. The gridding two-piece shirt collar template making method can draw two-piece shirt collar templates based on gridding, is convenient for drawing each step accurately to a point, has the advantages of simplicity and easy learning and mastering, can greatly reduce errors and improves accuracy of plate making. In an alternative embodiment, the drawing the right collar template based on the grid pattern formed by the horizontal line, the horizontal two lines, the horizontal three lines, the horizontal four lines, the vertical one line, the vertical two lines, the vertical three lines, the vertical four lines and the vertical five lines includes: And drawing a collar bottom line based on the transverse line, the longitudinal two lines, the longitudinal three lines, the longitudinal four lines and the longitudinal five lines, wherein d is extended rightwards along the transverse line, e is vertically upwards tilted to serve as a bottom collar mouth tilting point, the bottom collar mouth tilting point is connected with the longitudinal five points and is extended to the longitudinal four lines, the longitudinal four lines downwards take 1cm of points and are connected with the longitudinal three points, and the intersection point of the longitudinal four lines is connected with the longitudinal two points. This alternative may draw a neck line based on a horizontal line, the vertical two lines, the vertical three lines, the vertical four lines, and the vertical five lines. In an alternative embodiment, d=1.2 to 2cm and e=0.5 to 1cm. According to the alternative embodiment, the value ranges of d, e and f are set, so that the neck bottom line structure accords with most of human neck fossa characteristics, and the clothing applicability is improved. In an alternative embodiment, d=1.5 cm and e=0.5 cm. According to the optional implementation mode, specific numerical values of d, e and f are set, so that the c