CN-121835519-B - Coast incident wave impulse height prediction method and device, electronic equipment and storage medium

CN121835519BCN 121835519 BCN121835519 BCN 121835519BCN-121835519-B

Abstract

The invention discloses a method, a device, electronic equipment and a storage medium for predicting the altitude of an incident wave impulse flow of a coast, which belong to the technical field of coast dynamics and comprise the following steps of obtaining wave data and beach parameters of the coast to be predicted; according to the effective wave height of deep water, the spectrum peak period and the sediment sinking speed, dimensionless sinking speed parameters are calculated to obtain, the dimensionless sinking speed parameters represent dimensionless ratio relation between the effective wave height of deep water and the sinking distance of sediment in the spectrum peak period, according to the wave spectrum peak period, the deep water wavelength is calculated through the linear wave theory, the effective wave height of deep water, the deep water wavelength, the front shore gradient angle of a coast to be predicted and the dimensionless sinking speed parameters are input into an incident wave impulse height prediction model, and the predicted value of the incident wave impulse height of the coast is output. The method aims to solve the problems that the prediction adaptability is insufficient under different beach medium conditions, the prediction precision and stability are difficult to consider, and the reliable prediction is difficult to realize under the condition that engineering can obtain data in the prior art.

Inventors

JIANG QI
MA RUI
LI JIAOJIAO
JI KEFAN
JI CHAO
LIU LIANG
LIAO ERQUAN
YANG CHANGYI
CUI GUANCHEN
WANG LIYANG
JIA HE
FAN YUPING

Assignees

中交第一航务工程勘察设计院有限公司
交通运输部天津水运工程科学研究所

Dates

Publication Date: 20260508
Application Date: 20260312

Claims (10)

1. The coastal incident wave impulse height prediction method is characterized by comprising the following steps of: The method comprises the steps of obtaining wave data of a coast to be predicted and beach parameters, wherein the wave data at least comprise effective wave height of deep water and spectrum peak period, and the beach parameters at least comprise front beach gradient angle and beach sediment settling speed; according to the effective wave height of the deep water, the spectrum peak period and the sediment sinking speed, calculating to obtain dimensionless sinking speed parameters, wherein the dimensionless sinking speed parameters represent dimensionless ratio relation between the effective wave height of the deep water and the sinking distance of the sediment in the spectrum peak period, and the calculation formula is as follows: ; in the formula, Is a dimensionless sinking speed parameter; Is the effective wave height of deep water; is the sediment settling speed; is the period of the spectrum peak; according to the wave spectrum peak period, calculating the deepwater wavelength by using a linear wave theory; Inputting deep water effective wave height, deep water wavelength, shore front gradient angle to be predicted and dimensionless sinking speed parameters into an incident wave impulse height prediction model, and outputting a predicted value of the incident wave impulse height of the coast, wherein the incident wave impulse height prediction model is as follows: ; in the formula, Is a predicted value of the coastal incident wave impulse height, Is the angle of the front side slope, Is the effective wave height of deep water; Is deep water wavelength; Is a dimensionless sinking speed parameter.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the wave data of the coast to be predicted is obtained from a numerical model output, a analytical dataset, an engineering database, and a historical data file query.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein the acquiring wave data of the shore to be predicted comprises: the method comprises the steps of acquiring a spectrum peak period at a measuring point, a water depth at the measuring point and an effective wave height at the measuring point near a coast to be predicted through a wave sensor or a wave buoy, wherein the spectrum peak period at the measuring point is used as a spectrum peak period of an incident wave; According to the spectrum peak period, obtaining the deep water wavelength through calculation of a linear wave theory algorithm; Establishing a dispersion equation at the measuring point based on a linear wave theory according to the spectrum peak period and the water depth at the measuring point, and adopting a Newton iteration algorithm to carry out iterative solution on the dispersion equation to obtain the wavelength at the measuring point; And calculating the effective wave height of the deepwater through a linear wave theory algorithm according to the effective wave height at the measuring point, the wavelength at the measuring point, the deepwater wavelength and the water depth at the measuring point.
4. A method according to claim 3, wherein the iteration termination condition for obtaining the wavelength at the measuring point by iteratively solving the dispersion equation by using a newton iteration algorithm is that the absolute value of the difference between the wavelengths at the measuring point obtained by two adjacent iterations is smaller than a preset threshold or the number of iterations reaches an upper limit.
5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the beach sediment settling velocity is measured by sampling beach sediment in situ and performing a settling test, or is calculated from a beach sediment median particle size by a settling empirical relationship: ; ; in the formula, Is the sediment settling speed; The median particle diameter of the beach sediment is; is the motion viscosity coefficient of the water body; is of a dimensionless particle size; Is of dimensionless particle size To the third power of (3); Is the relative density of the sediment; Gravitational acceleration.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein after the obtaining the wave data and the beach parameters of the coast to be predicted, further comprising preprocessing the wave data and the beach parameters, the preprocessing comprising one or more of time stamp alignment, outlier rejection, and missing value replenishment.
7. The method of claim 1, further comprising collecting measured values of the incident wave plume heights on different coasts, and performing error analysis on the measured values and the predicted values to evaluate accuracy of the shore incident wave plume height prediction.
8. The coastal incident wave impulse height prediction device is characterized by comprising the following modules: the system comprises a data acquisition module, a data processing module and a data processing module, wherein the data acquisition module is used for acquiring wave data of a coast to be predicted and beach parameters, the wave data at least comprise effective wave height of deep water and spectrum peak period, and the beach parameters at least comprise front beach gradient angle and beach sediment sinking speed; The dimensionless sinking speed parameter calculation module is used for calculating dimensionless sinking speed parameters according to the deep water effective wave height, the spectrum peak period and the sediment sinking speed and outputting the dimensionless sinking speed parameters to the impulse height prediction module, wherein the dimensionless sinking speed parameters represent dimensionless ratio relation between the deep water effective wave height and the sediment sinking distance in the spectrum peak period, and the calculation formula is as follows: ; in the formula, Is a dimensionless sinking speed parameter; Is the effective wave height of deep water; is the sediment settling speed; is the period of the spectrum peak; the deepwater wavelength calculation module is used for calculating deepwater wavelength according to the spectrum peak period through the linear wave theory and outputting the deepwater wavelength to the impulse height prediction module; The ocean shore depth prediction module is used for inputting deep water effective wave height, deep water wavelength, shore slope angle before the coast to be predicted and dimensionless sinking speed parameters into an incident wave depth prediction model, outputting a predicted value of the coast incident wave depth, wherein the incident wave depth prediction model is as follows: ; in the formula, Is a predicted value of the coastal incident wave impulse height, Is the angle of the front side slope, Is the effective wave height of deep water; Is deep water wavelength; is a dimensionless sinking speed parameter; the output module is used for outputting the predicted value of the incident wave impulse flow height and providing the predicted result for upper-layer application, wherein the upper-layer application comprises early warning threshold judgment, coast engineering design parameter output and numerical simulation boundary condition input.
9. An electronic device for performing the method of any of claims 1-7, comprising a processor, a memory, and a communication interface, the processor, memory, and communication interface being connected by a bus, wherein: the memory is used for storing computer programs and operation data; the processor is electrically connected with the memory, and is used for calling and executing the computer program to realize the processing flow of acquiring wave parameters and beach parameters, calculating dimensionless sinking speed parameters, calculating deep water wavelength and calculating and outputting an incident wave impulse flow height predicted value; The communication interface is used for receiving data input from a wave sensor, a wave buoy or a database and/or outputting an incident wave impulse height prediction result to an external application system.
10. A computer readable storage medium, characterized in that the computer readable storage medium has stored thereon a computer program which, when executed by a processor, implements the method of any of claims 1-7.

Description

Coast incident wave impulse height prediction method and device, electronic equipment and storage medium Technical Field The invention belongs to the technical field of coastal dynamics, and particularly relates to a coastal incident wave impulse flow height prediction method, a coastal incident wave impulse flow height prediction device, electronic equipment and a storage medium. Background In the process of spreading, deforming and acting on the beach by the coastal waves, the coastal water level and the water body movement process can be obviously changed. The beach water level response caused by wave action can be generally divided into two main components, namely wave setting, which generally refers to the time average water level rise caused by wave breaking and the change of radiation stress caused by wave breaking, and flushing (swash), which generally refers to the periodical up-flushing and back-falling processes of waves on the beach, and reflects the direct action of wave energy on the beach. Since the impulse process may include water level oscillations caused by different frequency components, the impulse is generally classified into an incident wave impulse (INCIDENT SWASH) and a sub-gravitational wave impulse (INFRAGRAVITY SWASH) according to frequency in engineering and academic research, wherein the incident wave impulse generally corresponds to a higher frequency component (e.g., is generally distinguished by about 0.05 Hz as a boundary), and under certain beach types and sea conditions, the incident wave impulse can have an important influence on beach dynamic process and engineering safety assessment. The height of the incident wave impulse flow can represent the vertical water level fluctuation amplitude (usually represented in a statistic form) caused by the high-frequency short wave action, and the amplitude of the vertical water level fluctuation amplitude is influenced by wave characteristic parameters, beach topography (such as front beach gradient) and beach medium characteristics and other factors. Reasonable prediction is carried out on the incident wave impulse height, and basic parameter support is provided for coastal flood prediction, beach erosion evaluation and coastal protection engineering design. In the prior art, an empirical model is mostly adopted in the method for predicting the height of the incident wave impulse flow, and parameters such as wave height, period, gradient and the like are generally taken as main inputs so as to obtain a prediction result which can be used for engineering calculation. Although the method is convenient for calculation and application, the applicability and prediction accuracy under different beach conditions can be limited. On the one hand, beach media (such as sediment particle size or sinking velocity) may influence the near-shore wave-beach interaction process, thereby affecting the impulse response, and on the other hand, the prediction targets or parameterization of the partial schemes are not constructed for the incident wave impulse height, so that there may be insufficient suitability in describing the incident wave impulse response. For example, in the prior art, there are schemes for predicting wave water increase, such as a maximum wave water increase prediction method on the natural beach of the chinese patent of invention (CN 118051705B) which predicts wave water increase on the basis of considering the influence of the particle size of silt, however, the wave water increase and the incident wave current have differences in physical mechanism, feature definition and parametric modeling, and the above prediction target and parametric mode for wave water increase are not suitable for describing and predicting the incident wave current height. Therefore, a technical scheme for predicting the height of the incident wave impulse flow is still needed to realize reasonable calculation and output of the height of the incident wave impulse flow under the condition of engineering available input data. Reference is made to: [1] Holman R A, Sallenger Jr A H. Setup and swash on a natural beach[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 1985, 90(C1): 945-953（ Wave water-increasing and shoreside process on natural beach). [2] Ruggiero P, Holman R A, Beach R A. Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2004, 109(C6): C06025（ Wave climbing on a high energy dissipative beach). [3] Stockdon H F, Holman R A, Howd P A, et al. Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup[J]. Coastal engineering, 2006, 53(7): 573-588（ Empirical parameterization of wave water up, shore slapping and climbing). [4] Brinkkemper J A, Torres-Freyermuth A, Mendoza E T, et al. Parameterization of wave run-up on beaches in Yucatan, Mexico: A numerical study[C]//Proceedings of the 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, 2013: 225-234（ Mexico Ukatan beach wave climbing parameterization: a numerical st