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CN-121971340-A - Application of plum callus extract in maintaining pigment stability and photoprotection cosmetics, and related products and preparation method

CN121971340ACN 121971340 ACN121971340 ACN 121971340ACN-121971340-A

Abstract

The invention relates to application of a plum callus extract in cosmetics for maintaining pigment stability and photoprotection, and related products and preparation methods, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The technical problem to be solved is that the product containing the water-soluble pigment can fade, change color or change smell after long-time illumination, the shelf life and appearance of the product are seriously influenced, and the existing plant extract has an unsatisfactory effect of improving the light stability of the water-soluble pigment. The technical scheme is characterized in that the plum callus extract is added into the product, so that the tolerance of the product containing the water-soluble pigment to illumination is improved, the influence of the illumination on the shelf life and appearance of the product is reduced, the product can use a high-transparency packing material without worrying about illumination risks, and the plum callus extract can be unexpectedly found to effectively relieve the photo-damage of UVA and UVB on cells, so that the photo-protection effect of the product can be improved, and the photo-damaged skin can be repaired.

Inventors

  • FENG BAORU
  • HUANG HONGBIN
  • WU YANHONG
  • Xie Ouxiang
  • Zeng Haiqin
  • LI QINYA

Assignees

  • 美尚(广州)化妆品股份有限公司

Dates

Publication Date
20260505
Application Date
20260228

Claims (10)

  1. 1. The application of the plum callus extract in maintaining pigment stability and photoprotection cosmetics is characterized in that the plum callus extract is prepared by culturing leaves, stems and fruit callus of plum plants, the plum callus extract is used as a raw material for photoprotection in a color cosmetic product containing water-soluble pigment, the plum callus extract is used as a raw material for photoprotection in a skin care product, and the weight percentage of the plum callus extract in the color cosmetic product containing water-soluble pigment is 0.05-10%; Preferably, the weight percentage of the plum callus extract in the makeup product containing water-soluble pigment is 0.1-10%.
  2. 2. The use according to claim 1, wherein the extract of the calli is present in an amount of 2-10% by weight of the makeup product containing water-soluble pigments.
  3. 3. The use according to claim 2, wherein the extract of the calli is present in an amount of 4-10% by weight of the makeup product containing water-soluble pigments.
  4. 4. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the preparation method of the extract of prune callus comprises the steps of: S1, culturing, namely cutting plum plants, and carrying out induction dark culture and proliferation dark culture to obtain plum callus; s2, freeze-drying, namely pre-freezing the plum callus, and then performing vacuum freeze-drying to obtain freeze-dried plum callus; s3, extracting, namely precooling a grinding tool, adding freeze-dried plum callus and grinding to obtain plum callus powder; s4, mixing ethanol with the plum callus powder, performing ultrasonic extraction, filtering, and performing rotary steaming on the filtrate to obtain the plum extract.
  5. 5. A makeup cosmetic containing water-soluble pigment of plum callus extract is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.001-2% of water-soluble pigment; 0.1-10% of plum callus extract; 1-25% of humectant; 0.5-5% of thickening emulsifier, and Other auxiliary agents to 100%; the plum callus extract is prepared by callus culture of leaves, stems or fruits of plum plants.
  6. 6. The make-up cosmetic according to claim 5, characterized by comprising the following components in mass fraction: 0.01-2% of water-soluble pigment; 2-10% of plum callus extract; 1-24% of humectant; 0.5-5% of thickening emulsifier, and Other auxiliary agents to 100 percent.
  7. 7. The make-up cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein said water-soluble pigments are selected from one or more of CI 17200, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 42090; The humectant is one or more selected from glycerol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, propylene glycol and pentanediol; The thickening emulsifier is selected from one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, polysorbate-20, glycerol stearate, cetyl alcohol polyether-25, cetyl alcohol polyether-2, cetyl alcohol polyether-20, PEG-100 stearate, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, behenyl alcohol, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and polyacrylate-13; the other auxiliary agent is one or more selected from solvents, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, emollients, pH regulators and skin conditioning agents.
  8. 8. A method for preparing a make-up cosmetic as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 7, comprising the steps of: (1) The phase A is prepared by heating, mixing and dispersing water-soluble pigment, solvent and humectant uniformly; (2) B, adding the plum callus extract and preservative into the phase A, and heating and dispersing; (3) And C, preparing a phase A and a phase B, mixing, adding a thickening emulsifier, uniformly dispersing, adding a pH regulator, heating and mixing to obtain the composite material.
  9. 9. A skin care product containing plum callus extract is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-10% of extract of Japanese apricot callus, and Other auxiliary agents to 100%; Preferably, the extract of the plum callus is 1-5% by mass fraction; the plum callus extract is prepared by callus culture of leaves, stems or fruits of plum plants; the other auxiliary agent is one or more selected from humectant, solvent, emulsifier, thickener, antiseptic, antioxidant, essence, emollient, pH regulator, chelating agent, skin conditioner and sunscreen agent.
  10. 10. The method for preparing the skin care product according to claim 9, comprising the steps of: s1, preparing an oil phase, namely heating and dissolving the sun-screening agent A, stirring, adding an emollient and an emulsifier, and stirring uniformly to obtain the oil phase; S2, preparing a water phase, namely pre-dispersing a thickening agent and a humectant, adding a sun-screening agent B, a chelating agent and a solvent, heating and stirring to obtain the water phase; S3, adding the oil phase into the water phase, heating, homogenizing, stirring, cooling, adding the preservative and the pH regulator, stirring, cooling again, and adding the skin conditioner.

Description

Application of plum callus extract in maintaining pigment stability and photoprotection cosmetics, and related products and preparation method Technical Field The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to application of a plum callus extract in maintaining pigment stability and photoprotection cosmetics, and a related product and a preparation method. Background The fruit and flower of Mei can be used as medicine, and the efficacy of several parts of Mei is described in detail as early as Shen nong Ben Cao Jing, and the efficacy of Mei is described in detail for the first time in Ben Cao gang mu. At present, the research of scholars at home and abroad on plum blossom mainly focuses on the separation and identification of chemical components of plum blossom and the research of pharmacological activity. The chemical components mainly comprise flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, organic acids, volatile components and the like, and chlorogenic acid, rutin, hyperoside, isoquercitrin, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, cinnamyl acetate, eugenol, anthocyanin and other compounds have been separated and identified. The phenylpropanoids and flavonoid components have rich pharmacological activities, such as antibiosis, anti-inflammatory, antioxidation, melanin generation inhibition and the like, and are the material basis of the pharmacological activity of plum blossom. Wherein, chlorogenic acid, isoquercitrin and hyperin have higher content in plum blossom, and are index components specified in the current Chinese pharmacopoeia. Chlorogenic acid has good antioxidant and free radical scavenging effects, and has stronger free radical scavenging effects than vitamin C, vitamin E and caffeic acid, and has special inhibiting effect on hyaluronidase, and hyaluronic acid is main constituent of skin. In the dermis layer, hyaluronic acid, dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate and other mucopolysaccharide form a reticular polymer, and the reticular polymer has high hydration capability, flexibility and elasticity; chlorogenic acid compound has antioxidant effect, can protect collagen from being damaged by free radicals such as active oxygen, and can effectively prevent ultraviolet rays from damaging human skin. In the cosmetic formulation, water-soluble pigments are widely used in make-up products due to their vivid color and strong adhesion. However, the pigment has the common photosensitive property, is easy to fade, change color and even change smell under the condition of long-time illumination (including ultraviolet light and visible light), and seriously influences the shelf life and appearance of the product. To alleviate this problem, most commercial products containing such pigments rely on opaque packaging materials to reduce the effects of light, but limit the flexibility of product packaging design. At present, the conventional means for improving the photostability of the water-soluble pigment mostly adopts an antioxidant and a chelating agent in combination. In the prior art, when the plant extract is used for improving the light stability of the water-soluble pigment, the plant extract is difficult to achieve an ideal effect due to poor self stability. Meanwhile, skin photodamage protection is one of the core demands in the cosmetic field. Ultraviolet light (UVA, UVB) in sunlight is a major environmental factor causing photodamage to skin, and causes a series of problems such as skin collagen loss, wrinkle generation, inflammatory reaction and the like, and even causes DNA damage. Ultraviolet is a fraction of solar radiation that is separated into three bands, 315-400nm (UVA), 280-315nm (UVB), 200-280nm (UVC) according to its wavelength. UVC, although having the shortest wavelength and the greatest energy carried, is most severely blocked by the atmosphere and hardly affects the human body, and UVB and UVA are important causes of various skin diseases. UVB is a minor component of sunlight reaching the earth's surface, has high burning, high mutagenicity and high carcinogenicity in animal experiments, and can cause skin DNA damage after being irradiated by UVB, and skin cell mutation can be induced by the production of photoproducts such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. Ultraviolet irradiation on skin can cause rough skin, pale yellow and matt complexion, and deep wrinkles. Meanwhile, saccharification reaction is also one of factors of aging of human body and dark yellow skin. The related patent documents: Publication No. CN112451449A, publication No. 2021, 3/9, discloses the use of white plum extract for preventing and/or repairing skin photodamage. The document uses extracts of the quincuncial flowers, which are effective in preventing and/or repairing skin damage caused by sunlight, especially ultraviolet and/or blue light, thereby helping skin resist various environmental exposure pressures. The invention prepares the white plum extract and other additives such as glycerol ste