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CN-121976343-A - Production process method of full-flax woven jean fabric

CN121976343ACN 121976343 ACN121976343 ACN 121976343ACN-121976343-A

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of fabric production technology, and discloses a production technology method of a full-flax woven jean fabric, which comprises the following steps of selecting high-strength flax yarns and carrying out high-temperature steam wet heat balance pretreatment; the method comprises the steps of controlling tension to carry out low-speed warping, carrying out high-temperature scouring and low-concentration multi-channel indigo dyeing on warp yarns, carrying out permeation sizing by adopting low-viscosity low-concentration sizing agent containing modified starch, glycerol and softening agent, carrying out rapier weaving under the process conditions of closing a high-humidity environment, high back beams and early opening, and finally carrying out singeing, desizing and mechanical preshrinking finishing on grey cloth, or adding a cold pad batch process for semi-bleaching fabrics. The residual stress of the flax fibers is released through the wet-heat pretreatment, the moisture absorption plasticization effect of the glycerol is utilized to improve the toughness of the yarns, and the high-humidity environment and the high-back beam weaving process are combined to separate and entangle hairiness, so that the problems of high rigidity, easy breakage and unclear weaving mouth of the full flax yarns are effectively solved, and the continuous production of the high-quality full flax jean fabric is realized.

Inventors

  • LIU ZHENBO
  • WANG RUQI
  • CAO JIWEI
  • ZHANG XUANDONG
  • HUANG JINHU
  • WANG XIANGYIN

Assignees

  • 枣庄海扬王朝纺织有限公司

Dates

Publication Date
20260505
Application Date
20260203

Claims (10)

  1. 1. The production process of the full-flax woven jean fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of: S1, preparing raw materials, namely selecting 100% pure flax yarns with strength more than or equal to 1000CN and evenness CV value more than or equal to 25% as warp and weft yarns; S2, yarn pretreatment, namely placing the linen yarn in an environment with relative humidity of 60% -75% and temperature of 30% -60 ℃, and carrying out balance treatment for more than 24 hours under a high-temperature steam humidifying condition so as to enable the yarn to be penetrated by damp and heat to release residual stress in the fiber; s3, warping, namely warping the pretreated linen yarn and controlling warping dynamic tension; S4, dyeing, namely continuously treating warp beam yarns on a dyeing slurry combination machine, wherein the dyeing comprises a high-temperature scouring process and a plurality of dyeing processes carried out by adopting low-concentration indigo dye liquor; S5, sizing, namely sizing warp yarns by adopting low-viscosity low-concentration sizing agent, wherein the low-viscosity low-concentration sizing agent comprises modified starch, glycerol and a softening agent, and the low-viscosity sizing agent is cooperated with the moisture absorption plasticizing effect of the glycerol to permeate into the flax fiber bundles to form a sizing film on the surfaces of the yarn bodies; s6, weaving, namely interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns by using a rapier loom, performing closed environmental control on a loom area in the weaving process, keeping a high humidity state, and simultaneously raising the height of a back beam of the loom to form tension difference between upper and lower layers of the warp yarns so as to separate flax hairiness adhesion; And S7, after-finishing, namely sequentially singeing, desizing and mechanical preshrinking finishing are carried out on the grey cloth woven and taken off from the machine, so that the finished fabric is obtained.
  2. 2. The production process of the full-flax woven jean fabric is characterized in that in the step S1, the fineness of the flax yarn is 29-97 tex, the hairiness index H3 is less than or equal to 30, in the step S3, the warping speed is controlled to be 80-90 m/min, and the warping tension is stabilized to be 25-35 CN.
  3. 3. The production process method of the full-flax woven jean fabric, which is disclosed in claim 1, is characterized in that in the step S4, an auxiliary liquid containing 4-6 g/L of penetrating agent, 3-10 g/L of silicone oil and 10-30 g/L of softening agent is used in the high-temperature scouring process, the temperature is 50-90 ℃, six-to twelve-cylinder normal-temperature indigo dyeing is adopted in the dyeing process, the indigo content in the indigo dye liquid is 2.0-4.0 g/L, the sodium hydrosulfite content is 0.5-1.5 g/L, and the sodium hydroxide content is 2.0-3.0 g/L.
  4. 4. The production process of the full flax woven jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step S5, the low-viscosity low-concentration slurry is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 10-25 parts of modified starch; glycerol 1.0-3.0 parts; 10-20 parts of softening agent; Water is fixed to 600-750 parts by volume; the sizing process parameters are that the temperature of the slurry tank is 96-98 ℃, the viscosity of the slurry tank measured by a viscosity cup with the water value of 4 seconds is controlled to be 6-7 seconds, and the solid content of the slurry is 5-15%.
  5. 5. The production process of the full-flax woven jean fabric is characterized in that the modified starch is oxidized starch, the glycerol is glycerol, the softening agent is stearic acid amide propyl dimethyl tertiary amine, the steps S4 and S5 are continuously carried out on a dyeing and sizing combination machine, and the speed of the whole jean fabric is controlled to be 6-18 m/min.
  6. 6. The production process of the full-flax woven jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step S6, the specific parameters of the closed environment control are that the environment temperature is 28-32 ℃ and the relative humidity is 70-75%; The mechanical parameters of the rapier loom are set to be that the opening time is 310-315 degrees, the back beam height is 13mm, the warp tension is 2800-3000N, and the vehicle speed is 360-380 r/min.
  7. 7. The production process method of the full-flax woven jean fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that the singeing process in the step S7 adopts a singeing mode of two positive and one negative, and the speed of the motor is controlled to be 80-100 m/min.
  8. 8. The production process method of the full flax woven jean fabric, which is characterized in that the desizing procedure in the step S7 adopts double-groove desizing, wherein the first groove contains 1.0 g/L-3.0 g/L of desizing enzyme and 1.0 g/L-5.0 g/L of penetrating agent, and the temperature is 50-80 ℃; The parameters of the mechanical preshrinking process are that the speed of the vehicle is 30-40 m/min, the temperature of a drying cylinder is 100-130 ℃, the temperature of a rubber blanket and a woolen blanket is 100-130 ℃, and the pressure of a padder is 3.0-5.0 MPa.
  9. 9. The method according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing step in step S4 is omitted and only scouring or directly subsequent steps are performed when the semi-bleached full-flax jean fabric is produced, and a cold pad-batch pretreatment step is added after the singeing step and before the desizing step in step S7; the cold-pad-batch pretreatment process comprises the steps of padding grey cloth by using cold-pad working fluid, piling for 10-24 hours at room temperature after rolling and sealing, and then washing, wherein the cold-pad working fluid contains 25-35 g/L of sodium hydroxide, 10-20 g/L of refining agent, 115-125 g/L of 27.5% hydrogen peroxide and 10-20 g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer.
  10. 10. The production process method of the full-flax woven jean fabric is characterized in that the speed of a sizing vehicle in the step S5 is adjusted to be 12-20 m/min, and the temperature of a cold pile working solution in the step S9 is controlled to be 20-40 ℃.

Description

Production process method of full-flax woven jean fabric Technical Field The invention relates to the field of fabric production technology, in particular to a production technology method of a full-flax woven jean fabric. Background With the emphasis of sustainable development and green manufacturing in the textile industry, environment-friendly fabric is becoming the main stream of the market. At present, the traditional jean fabric mainly uses cotton, polyester fiber, spandex and the like as raw materials. Cotton planting generally requires the consumption of large amounts of water resources, while the difficult degradability of chemical fibers renders them less than fully ecological cycle. In contrast, the flax is taken as a natural cellulose fiber, the planting process mainly depends on rainwater irrigation, has natural disease and pest resistance, can greatly reduce the use of pesticides and insecticides, can be completely decomposed by microorganisms, and has excellent environmental protection properties. In addition, the unique middle cavity structure of the flax fiber endows the flax fiber with good moisture absorption and dispersion property and natural antibacterial property, so that the flax fiber becomes an ideal raw material of the summer jean fabric. Although the full-flax fabric has the advantages, flax jean products on the market at present mainly adopt flax-cotton blending, and cotton yarns are generally adopted as warp yarns and flax yarns as weft yarns. Although the blending structure reduces the production difficulty, the cool and breathable and fully degradable environment-friendly characteristics of the flax fiber are weakened. Limited by the matching degree problem of the physical characteristics of the flax fibers and the prior weaving technology, the large-scale production of the full flax jean fabric always faces a great challenge. The main reason that the prior art is difficult to realize the high-efficiency production of the full-flax jean fabric is that the physical properties of flax fibers are contradictory with those of the traditional jean weaving process. The flax fiber has the characteristics of high crystallinity and high orientation, which results in strong fiber rigidity, low elongation at break, poor cohesion and abundant surface hairiness. In the traditional jean production, the warp yarns need to bear high tension and repeated friction, and the full flax warp yarns are extremely easy to break in brittleness. In order to reduce the breakage rate, the speed of a loom is often forced to be greatly reduced in production, which directly leads to low production efficiency and increases the defect rate of fabrics due to frequent shutdown treatment of breakage. In addition, as the evenness of the linen yarn is relatively poor, the woven fabric is easy to have appearance defects such as warp yarns and the like under the condition of not optimizing a specific process. Therefore, how to overcome the technical bottlenecks of high rigidity and poor weaving property of the flax fibers and develop a set of full flax jean fabric production process capable of considering production efficiency and fabric quality is a technical problem which needs to be solved in the current industry. Disclosure of Invention Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a production process method of a full-flax woven jean fabric, which solves the problems of low elongation at break, high rigidity and poor cohesion caused by high crystallinity and orientation degree of flax fibers. The invention provides a production process of a full flax woven jean fabric, which comprises the following steps: S1, preparing raw materials, namely selecting 100% pure flax yarns with strength of more than or equal to 1000CN and evenness CV value of more than or equal to 25% as warp and weft yarns; S2, yarn pretreatment, namely placing the flax yarn in an environment with relative humidity of 60-75% and temperature of 30-60 ℃, and carrying out balance treatment for more than 24 hours under the condition of high-temperature steam humidification so as to enable the yarn to be penetrated by damp and heat to release residual stress in the fiber; s3, warping, namely warping the pretreated linen yarn and controlling warping dynamic tension; S4, dyeing, namely continuously treating warp beam yarns on a dyeing slurry combination machine, wherein the dyeing comprises a high-temperature scouring process and a plurality of dyeing processes carried out by adopting low-concentration indigo dye liquor; s5, sizing, namely sizing warp yarns by adopting low-viscosity low-concentration sizing agent, wherein the sizing agent comprises modified starch, glycerol and a softening agent, and the sizing agent is used for penetrating into the flax fiber bundles in cooperation with the low-viscosity sizing agent by utilizing the moisture absorption and plasticization effects of the glycerol to form sizing films on the surfaces of