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CN-121985934-A - Two-step process for fixing keratin materials, care and/or make-up products, fixing composition

CN121985934ACN 121985934 ACN121985934 ACN 121985934ACN-121985934-A

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for fixing a care and/or make-up product for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising at least the steps of 1) applying to the surface of the keratin material a first layer made up of a care and/or make-up composition (B), 2) applying to the first layer so formed a second fixing layer by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (A) comprising, in a medium which is particularly physiologically acceptable, (a) at least one anionic fixing polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type, (B) at least one amphoteric fixing polymer selected from polymers comprising units derived from i) at least one monomer selected from acrylamide or methacrylamide substituted on the nitrogen atom, ii) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer, (C) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, (d) at least one plasticizer, and (e) at least one propellant.

Inventors

  • AYRES CRISTIANE
  • L. ABERT
  • N. Smale

Assignees

  • 莱雅公司

Dates

Publication Date
20260505
Application Date
20240614
Priority Date
20230821

Claims (20)

  1. 1. A method for immobilizing a care and/or make-up product for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least the following steps: 1) Applying a first layer consisting of a care and/or make-up composition (B) to the surface of the keratin materials; 2) Applying a second anchoring layer to said first layer thus formed by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (a) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) At least one anionic fixing polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type, and (B) At least one amphoteric fixing polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from: i) At least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by alkyl groups, Ii) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and Iii) At least one basic comonomer, and (C) At least one C2-C4 monohydric alcohol, and (D) At least one plasticizer, and (E) At least one propellant.
  2. 2. The process according to claim 1, wherein in composition (a) the anionic fixing polymer (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is selected from those comprising in its chain vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of linear or branched saturated carboxylic acids having a long hydrocarbon chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers optionally being grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively, another monomer which is vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an α -or β -cyclic carboxylic acid.
  3. 3. The process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in composition (a), the anionic fixing polymer (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer having the following INCI name VA/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer; Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers having the INCI name VA/crotonate, or Vinyl acetate/vinyl butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers Having the INCI name VA/butylbenzoate vinyl/crotonate copolymer, and more particularly vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer, having the INCI name VA/crotonate/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer.
  4. 4. The process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the anionic fixing polymer (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and still better from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (a).
  5. 5. The process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the amphoteric fixing polymer (b) is a terpolymer having the INCI name octyl acrylamide/acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer.
  6. 6. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the amphoteric fixing polymer (b) is present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and still better from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (a).
  7. 7. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the C2-C4 monohydric alcohol (C) is selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.
  8. 8. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the C2-C4 monohydric alcohol (C) is present in a total content ranging from 20 to 95% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 30 to 80% by weight and more particularly from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (a).
  9. 9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the plasticizer (d) is selected from those of the phthalate, ester, citrate, benzoate and siloxane families, and mixtures thereof.
  10. 10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the plasticizer (d) is selected from tri (C1-C6) alkyl esters of citric acid, such as tributyl citrate and triethyl citrate, and more particularly triethyl citrate.
  11. 11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the plasticizer (d) is in a total amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight and still better from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the fixing polymers (a) and (b).
  12. 12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in composition (a) the plasticizer (d) is in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, still better from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (a).
  13. 13. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the propellant (e) is dimethyl ether.
  14. 14. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the propellant (e) is present in a total amount ranging from 20 to 70% by weight, preferably from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, still better from 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (a).
  15. 15. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein composition (a) further comprises (f) water, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20 wt. -%, more preferably from 1 to 15 wt. -%, still better from 2 to 10 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of composition (a).
  16. 16. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of: -volatile organic solvents and/or non-volatile organic solvents; Active agents, such as moisturizers, vitamins such as vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; -a ceramide; -a UV screening agent; Colorants, such as powdered colorants, water-soluble dyes, and fat-soluble dyes; -a hydrophilic gelling agent; -a lipophilic gelling agent; -a filler; -a fragrance; -a preservative; -and mixtures thereof.
  17. 17. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) is a skin care product, in particular a sun protection product, a product for oily skin, a product for dry skin or an anti-aging product.
  18. 18. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) is a cosmetic product for the face, such as a foundation, a cosmetic product for the eyelid, such as an eye shadow, a cosmetic product for the cheek, such as face powder, a cosmetic product for the lips, such as lipstick, a cosmetic product for the eyelashes or eyebrows, such as mascara or eyeliner.
  19. 19. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) is a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion comprising a continuous oil phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase.
  20. 20. The method according to claim 19, wherein composition (B) in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprises one or more emulsifying surfactants, preferably nonionic, having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0.

Description

Two-step process for fixing keratin materials, care and/or make-up products, fixing composition The present application relates to the field of coating keratin materials, in particular skin. Currently, in the market for care and make-up keratin materials such as skin, many products claim to have makeup-holding properties that last for a whole day and are resistant to external aggressive factors such as water, sebum, mechanical abrasion, etc. (permanent foundations), do not transfer the product to a substrate such as clothing, and comfort at the time of application. Facial permanent products that can be used at home are mainly based on synthetic film-forming polymers in the presence of organic solvents. For the composition for making up the face, compositions comprising a silicone resin as film former are known, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate having the following INCI name or compounds having the following INCI name, polypropylsilsesquioxane, or silicone acrylate copolymers such as products having the following INCI name, acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers. In addition to these long-lasting products, the current trend is toward semi-permanent make-up. More specifically, in recent years, conventional cosmetic products have encountered market competition from semi-permanent makeup in professional salons. This is a reddish and shiny effect encountered in the skin tone field (freckles, moles or whole faces, skin-glow or healthy). This new trend has prompted consumers to seek longer and longer cosmetic holding characteristics for greater practicality (avoiding having to make-up and make-up every day, having a glow effect immediately after waking up, etc.). Aerosol products for caring for and/or making up the face are known on the market, which allow the fixation of previously made up. They generally contain, in an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or anhydrous alcoholic medium, a fixing polymer, such as a vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, having the INCI name VP/VA copolymer and at least one propellant, butane, propane, isopropane. For example, mention may be made of the products Schwarzkopf Clock Block Make-Up Fixing Spray (Henkel), diego DALLA PALMA MAKE-Up Fixer (AGGF cosmetic group (AGGF Cosmetic Group), italy) and Make-Up Fixing SPRAY CATRICE Haute Coulteur (Cosnova group). Mention may also be made of aqueous stationary aerosols with film-forming polymers VP/eicosene copolymers and polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers. Cosmetic fixed sprayers are also known which contain, in an alcoholic medium, a fixed polymer such as a copolymer acrylate/octylacrylamide copolymer, for example the commercial product Make-Up Fixing SPRAY MY HEALTH Mood Care (Aeroflex Ind. D. Stria de Aerossol company), or a water-alcohol product APRIL SKIN Fixing Make-Up Fixer with the film-forming polymer polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). However, these compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of resistance to external aggressive factors such as water, sebum and mechanical friction, in terms of non-transfer and/or in terms of comfort upon application, in particular by depositing a broken (fragile) film and/or skin tightness due to lack of flexibility and elasticity of the deposited film. It is an object of the present invention to provide novel aerosol devices for immobilizing care and/or make-up products for keratin materials such as the skin, which provide excellent make-up holding characteristics for the desired cosmetic effect (in particular the color of make-up), good transfer resistance characteristics with respect to substrates such as clothing, and also comfort when applied to keratin materials, in particular resulting in the deposition of flexible, elastic and nonfractable films. The inventors have surprisingly found that this object can be achieved by a method for immobilizing a care and/or make-up product for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising at least the following steps: 1) Applying a first layer (base coat) consisting of a care and/or make-up composition (B) to the surface of the keratin materials; 2) Applying a second anchoring layer (top coat) to the so formed first layer by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (a) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) At least one anionic fixing polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type, and (B) At least one amphoteric fixing polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from: i) At least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by alkyl groups, Ii) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and Iii) At least one basic comonomer, and (C) At least one C2-C4 monohydric alcohol, and (D) At least one plasticizer, and (E) At least one propellant. The aerosol device is capable of producing a uniform, high-cosmetic, transfer-resistant film which is comfortable when ap