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CN-121992555-A - Mercerized and liner-free fabric and preparation method thereof

CN121992555ACN 121992555 ACN121992555 ACN 121992555ACN-121992555-A

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of anti-suede fabrics, in particular to a simulated mercerized liner-free fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein fibers with diamond initial section shapes are selected to be processed into yarns, the length-to-length axis ratio of the diamond is 1.5-2.2:1, the acute angle is 55-70 degrees, high-density woven grey cloth is obtained through weaving, front and back surface calendering finishing is carried out after dyeing, the diamond section of the fibers is subjected to plastic deformation under the action of heat and pressure, and finally the diamond section is evolved into an elliptical triangle section with round bottom and relatively sharp ends. The invention creatively combines the appearance style of the imitation silk and the high-efficiency physical anti-velvet structure of the same fabric through the linkage of the yarn section design and the after-finishing process, thoroughly abandons the extra liner cloth or functional film, provides the fiber section dynamic design thought of 'pre-setting initial form-after-finishing triggering final state', ensures the spinning feasibility and the initial style of the fabric through the initial diamond, and provides the velvet locking function through the calendaring 'activation' of the final elliptic triangle.

Inventors

  • XIE YUNFENG
  • GUO SHUNGANG
  • Qiu Zeping
  • YU SHUJIA
  • ZHANG PENGFEI

Assignees

  • 泉州向兴面料研究院有限公司
  • 向兴(福建)新材料科技有限公司

Dates

Publication Date
20260508
Application Date
20260122

Claims (10)

  1. 1. The preparation method of the simulated mercerized liner-free fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of: S1, processing superfine denier fiber or micro denier fiber to obtain yarn, wherein the initial cross section of the fiber is diamond, the ratio of the long axis to the short axis of the diamond is 1.5-2.2:1, and the acute angle is 55-70 degrees; S2, weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns to obtain high-density woven grey cloth, wherein at least one of the warp yarns and the weft yarns adopts the yarn in the step S1; S3, carrying out front and back surface calendaring finishing on the high-density woven grey cloth after pretreatment and dyeing, wherein the calendaring temperature is higher than the glass transition temperature of the fiber and lower than the melting point of the fiber, the diamond-shaped section of the fiber is subjected to plastic deformation under the action of heat and pressure, and finally the diamond-shaped section of the fiber is evolved into an oval triangle section with round bottom and relatively sharp two ends.
  2. 2. The method for producing a silk-like glossy liner-free fabric according to claim 1, wherein the weave structure of the high-density woven grey cloth is plain weave, twill weave, satin weave or a variation of the three.
  3. 3. The method for producing a silk-like glossy liner-free fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp density of the high-density woven grey cloth is 200 to 220 roots/inch and the weft density is 230 to 260 roots/inch.
  4. 4. The method for preparing the silk-like glossy liner-free fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn type in the step S1 is fully drawn yarn FDY or drawn textured yarn DTY.
  5. 5. The method for producing a silk-like glossy liner-free fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn has a linear density of 7D to 20D and a single filament fineness of 0.27dtex to 1.0dtex.
  6. 6. The method for preparing the silk-like luster liner-free fabric according to claim 1, wherein the front and back calendering in the step S3 is finished into front calendering and back calendering, and the specific process is as follows: The first step of the back surface is carried out at the temperature of 140-160 ℃, the speed of 15-25m/min and the pressure of 60-80kg/cm 2 ; The second step of the back surface, wherein the temperature is 140-160 ℃, the speed is 15-25m/min, and the pressure is 60-80kg/cm 2 ; The third step of back surface, namely, the temperature is 140-160 ℃, the speed is 15-25m/min, and the pressure is 90-110kg/cm 2 ; The first pass of the front face is at the temperature of 140-160 ℃, the speed of 15-25m/min and the pressure of 90-110kg/cm 2 ; The second path of the material is at 140-160deg.C, 15-25m/min, and 90-110kg/cm 2 .
  7. 7. The method for preparing the silk-like glossy liner-free fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fibers with diamond-shaped initial cross sections in the step S1 are prepared through a cross spinneret plate combined with a circular air blowing cooling process.
  8. 8. The method for preparing the simulated mercerized liner-free fabric according to claim 7, wherein the fiber spinning process with the diamond-shaped initial cross section in the step S1 is specifically as follows: s11, drying the polymer slice to reduce the water content to below 30 ppm; S11, heating and melting the dried slices in a screw extruder, and controlling the temperature of the melt to be 290-305 ℃; S12, conveying the molten polymer to a spinneret plate after accurate measurement by a metering pump, wherein the spinneret plate is provided with cross micropores, and the cross micropores are formed by four equal-length slits in 90-degree orthogonality; S13, adopting circular air blowing cooling, wherein the air temperature is 15-25 ℃, the air speed is 0.45-0.65 m/S, and the relative humidity is 70-80% RH; under the uniform encircling cooling effect of the encircling cooling air, the melt flow extruded from the cross-shaped holes is subjected to regular evolution of cross-section morphology under the combined effect of surface tension and rapid cooling solidification, and finally is solidified to form monofilament fibers with clear and regular rhombic cross sections; s14, oiling the cooled fiber; S15, carrying out multistage drafting and heat setting on the fiber, wherein the total draft multiple is 4.0-5.0, the drafting comprises one-step drafting and two-step drafting, the temperature of the one-step drafting is 80-90 ℃, the temperature of the two-step drafting is 120-130 ℃, and the heat setting temperature is 160-180 ℃.
  9. 9. The method for preparing the silk-like luster liner-free fabric according to claim 8, wherein the polymer slice is a polyester slice, a polyamide slice or a polypropylene slice.
  10. 10. A simulated mercerized non-liner fabric produced by the production method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the fabric warp and weft yarn comprises at least one yarn processed from a diamond-shaped superfine denier fiber or micro-denier fiber as an initial cross-section, and the final cross-section of the diamond-shaped superfine denier fiber or micro-denier fiber is an oval triangle cross-section after calendering.

Description

Mercerized and liner-free fabric and preparation method thereof Technical Field The invention relates to the technical field of anti-velvet fabric, in particular to a simulated mercerized liner-free fabric and a preparation method thereof. Background The liner-free fabric, namely the high-density fabric without additionally adding the anti-velvet liner, realizes multiple functions of lightness, warmth retention and anti-velvet. The main aim of the liner-free fabric technology is to eliminate the traditional anti-velvet liner material and simultaneously maintain the anti-velvet performance of the fabric. This is important for reducing the weight of the garment, simplifying the manufacturing process and improving the comfort of the wearer. The existing liner-free fabric technology realizes the anti-velvet effect mainly through a high-density fabric structure and functional after-finishing. The high-density fabric reduces the gaps among yarns in the fabric by increasing the warp and weft density, thereby preventing down from being drilled out. However, the method can lead to hardening of the fabric while realizing the anti-velvet function, and the hand feeling and the comfort degree are affected. Consumer demand for high-end down jackets has shifted from purely thermal insulation to "lightweight" and "fashion" which combine fashion and functionality. The silk-like fabric is an ideal outer layer fabric with soft luster, fresh touch and excellent drapability, but has large porosity of a conventional structure and does not have a down-proof function. At present, the original style of the imitation silk fabric is seriously damaged by the scheme of compounding a film at the rear part of the imitation silk fabric or adding liner cloth to prevent velvet. Therefore, development of the 'liner-free' fabric which can directly realize high-efficiency anti-drilling down through physical structure innovation on a silk-like fabric substrate and perfectly retain the luster, the hand feeling and the drapability of the fabric becomes urgent market demand. This requires the fundamental design of yarns with special functions and the development of a finishing process that matches them. Disclosure of Invention The invention aims to provide a silk-like luster liner-free fabric and a preparation method thereof, which are based on the precise design of the cross section morphology of fibers and matched with a specific finishing process, so that the silk-like luster liner fabric realizes soft and smooth hand feeling, pearl softness and brightness comparable to silk and has excellent drapability and air permeability under the condition of not depending on any independent anti-velvet liner fabric or functional coating. In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme: a preparation method of a simulated mercerized liner-free fabric comprises the following steps: S1, processing superfine denier fiber or micro denier fiber to obtain yarn, wherein the initial cross section of the fiber is diamond, the ratio of the long axis to the short axis of the diamond is 1.5-2.2:1, and the acute angle is 55-70 degrees; S2, weaving the warp yarns and the weft yarns to obtain high-density woven grey cloth, wherein at least one of the warp yarns and the weft yarns adopts the yarn in the step S1; S3, carrying out front and back surface calendaring finishing on the high-density woven grey cloth after pretreatment and dyeing, wherein the calendaring temperature is higher than the glass transition temperature of the fiber and lower than the melting point of the fiber, the diamond-shaped section of the fiber is subjected to plastic deformation under the action of heat and pressure, and finally the diamond-shaped section of the fiber is evolved into an oval triangle section with round bottom and relatively sharp two ends. Preferably, the weave structure of the high-density woven grey cloth is plain weave, twill weave, satin weave or the change weave of the three. Preferably, the warp density of the high-density woven grey cloth is 200-220 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 230-260 pieces/inch. Preferably, the yarn type of the step S1 is fully drawn yarn FDY or draw textured yarn DTY. Preferably, the yarn has a linear density of 7D to 20D and a denier per filament of 0.27dtex to 1.0dtex. Preferably, the front and back calendering in the step S3 is finished into front calendering two times and back calendering three times, and the specific process is as follows: The first step of the back surface is carried out at the temperature of 140-160 ℃, the speed of 15-25m/min and the pressure of 60-80kg/cm 2; The second step of the back surface, wherein the temperature is 140-160 ℃, the speed is 15-25m/min, and the pressure is 60-80kg/cm 2; The third step of back surface, namely, the temperature is 140-160 ℃, the speed is 15-25m/min, and the pressure is 90-110kg/cm 2; The first pass of the front face is at the temperature of 14