CN-122004558-A - Plate making method for front continuous sleeve and rear sleeve falling, paper pattern and coat

CN122004558ACN 122004558 ACN122004558 ACN 122004558ACN-122004558-A

Abstract

The invention discloses a plate making method, a paper pattern and a jacket of a front continuous sleeve and a rear sleeve, which belong to the technical field of clothing plate making, and comprise a front piece and a rear piece of basic paper pattern, wherein a sleeve fertilizer line, a perpendicular bisector, a sleeve elbow line, a sleeve midline, a sleeve bottom line and a sleeve opening line are arranged on the basic paper pattern; the invention discloses a half-sleeve frame structure, which comprises a front sleeve fat line, a rear sleeve fat line, a front sleeve joint line, a rear sleeve joint line, sleeve part reference points, a sleeve part reference point, a sleeve part offset control point, a front sleeve structure control line, a rear sleeve structure control line, a half-sleeve frame structure, a front sleeve joint line, a front sleeve suture line, a rear sleeve suture line, a sleeve part structure, a sleeve part, a whole paper pattern plate making of a front sleeve joint, a rear sleeve joint and a sleeve part, wherein the front sleeve joint line and the rear sleeve joint line are respectively arranged by the front sleeve fat line and the rear sleeve fat line, the front sleeve joint line and the offset control point are horizontally moved to form the front sleeve structure control line and the rear sleeve structure control line.

Inventors

HUANG WEI
Wan Gangqun
MA CHUNYAN
HU YANHONG

Assignees

波司登羽绒服装有限公司

Dates

Publication Date: 20260512
Application Date: 20260320

Claims (10)

1. A plate making method of a front continuous sleeve and a rear sleeve is characterized by comprising the following steps: Obtaining a basic paper pattern comprising a front piece and a rear piece, wherein the basic paper pattern comprises a sleeve fertilizer line, a perpendicular bisector, a sleeve elbow line, a sleeve midline, a sleeve bottom line and a sleeve opening line; respectively obtaining a front sleeve fertilizer line and a rear sleeve fertilizer line on the front piece and the rear piece, respectively taking a vertical line at the middle point of the front sleeve fertilizer line and the middle point of the rear sleeve fertilizer line to form a front middle vertical line and a rear middle vertical line; the front middle vertical line and the rear middle vertical line respectively intersect with the front armhole line and the rear armhole line to form sleeve part datum points, offset control points are arranged at sleeve elbow lines and sleeve opening lines, and a front sleeve structure control line and a rear sleeve structure control line are formed by connecting the sleeve part datum points and the offset control points; performing translation treatment on the front sleeve structure control line, and forming new structure control points with the sleeve center line and the sleeve opening line respectively; Taking the translated structure control line as a reference to form a vertical line, forming an intersection point with the extension lines of the front middle vertical line and the rear middle vertical line, and connecting the intersection point with the middle vertical line to construct a half-sleeve frame structure; Acquiring a front armhole arc line, forming a new front armhole arc line through symmetrical transformation, and symmetrically processing the front armhole arc line by taking a front perpendicular bisector as a symmetrical axis to form a front continuous sleeve structure arc line; translating the front sleeve structure control line to form a front sleeve suture structure; Symmetrically processing the rear sleeve arc line by taking the rear perpendicular bisector as a symmetry axis, and forming a rear sleeve suture line structure by translating the rear sleeve structure control line; acquiring a sleeve sheet structure, extracting a first sleeve sheet and a second sleeve sheet, dividing the sleeve sheet by a dividing line, and recombining the sleeve sheets to form a new second sleeve sheet structure; the sleeve piece is trimmed, and front and back sleeve split lines and molding lines are drawn; and splicing the formed front sleeve connecting structure and the rear sleeve falling structure, adjusting the length, the side seam length and the armhole putting amount distribution, and completing the whole paper pattern plate making of the front sleeve connecting and rear sleeve falling structure.
2. The method for making a front continuous sleeve and rear sleeve according to claim 1, wherein, The front perpendicular bisector is intersected with the front armhole line to form a point A, the front perpendicular bisector is inwards offset by 1cm at the front sleeve elbow line to form a point B, the front perpendicular bisector is outwards offset by 1cm at the front sleeve elbow line to form a point C, and the point A, B, C is connected to form a front sleeve structure control line; The rear perpendicular bisector is intersected with the rear armhole line to form a point D, the rear perpendicular bisector is inwards offset by 1.2cm at the rear sleeve elbow line to form a point E, the rear perpendicular bisector is inwards offset by 5.5cm at the rear sleeve cuff line to form a point F, and the point D, E, F is connected to form a rear sleeve structure control line.
3. The method for producing a front continuous sleeve and rear sleeve according to claim 2, wherein the BC line is translated so that the intersection point of the B point and the sleeve centerline forms a point B and the intersection point of the front cuff line forms a point c.
4. A method of making a front continuous sleeve rear sleeve according to claim 3 wherein the line connecting b and c intersects the front bisector through point c to form point T, the line connecting c and T extends and intersects the extension line of the rear bisector to form point U, and the half sleeve frame structure is constructed by connecting U with T and combining the front bisector and the rear bisector.
5. The plate making method of the front continuous sleeve and rear sleeve according to claim 1, wherein a front armhole arc line GH is obtained, a circle is made by taking H as a circle center and HG as a radius, a point M is formed by intersecting with a front sleeve bottom line, a line segment GM is formed by connecting G and M, a midpoint Q of the GM is obtained and connected with HQ, the arc line GH is symmetrically obtained by taking HQ as a symmetrical line, the arc line HM is made to be a new front armhole arc line, and a symmetrical arc line HM of the HM is obtained by taking a front perpendicular bisector as a symmetrical line.
6. A method of making a front continuous sleeve rear raglan sleeve according to claim 2, wherein the front sleeve stitch structure comprises a first sleeve front sleeve stitch and a second sleeve front sleeve stitch; The line segment ABC is translated to form line segment HJK and continued to be translated to form line segment hjk, with HJK as the first sleeve front suture and hjk as the second sleeve front suture.
7. A method of making a front continuous sleeve rear sleeve according to claim 2, wherein the rear sleeve seam structure comprises a first sleeve rear sleeve seam and a second sleeve rear sleeve seam; And (3) taking the rear perpendicular bisector as a symmetrical line to obtain a symmetrical arc PO of the arc PO, and respectively translating the line segment DEF inwards by 1cm to form line segments nxv and NXV, wherein NXV is taken as a first sleeve rear sleeve suture and nxv is taken as a second sleeve rear sleeve suture.
8. The method for producing a front continuous sleeve and rear sleeve according to claim 1, wherein the step of obtaining the second sleeve sheet structure comprises the steps of dividing the first sleeve sheet into an upper part and a lower part through a line segment xj and into a left part and a right part through a straight line po, overlapping a point o with a point m to form an upper part structure of the second sleeve sheet, extending the line segment Vv and intersecting a rear sleeve line to form a point S, and forming a lower part structure of the second sleeve sheet through overlapping Sc.
9. A front-sleeve and rear-sleeve-falling clothing pattern structure, which is characterized by being manufactured by adopting the front-sleeve and rear-sleeve-falling plate making method according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the pattern comprises a front-sleeve integrated front piece structure and a rear-sleeve-falling rear piece structure spliced with the front-sleeve integrated front piece structure.
10. A front-sleeve rear-sleeve-falling garment, which is characterized by being formed by cutting and sewing the front-sleeve rear-sleeve-falling garment paper pattern structure according to claim 9.

Description

Plate making method for front continuous sleeve and rear sleeve falling, paper pattern and coat Technical Field The invention relates to a plate making method of a front continuous sleeve and a rear sleeve, a paper pattern and a jacket, and belongs to the technical field of clothing plate making. Background In the process of clothing design and production, clothing platemaking is an important technical link for converting design effects into paper patterns which can be actually produced, and the design appearance, the structural rationality and the wearing comfort of clothing are directly affected. In the prior art, the sleeve connecting structure and the raglan sleeve structure are in two common sleeve types, the sleeve connecting structure generally refers to an integral structure formed by connecting sleeves with a front piece or an integral clothing body, in the actual plate making process, as the front sleeve connecting structure and the rear raglan sleeve structure have larger difference in structural form and put quantity relation, various structural problems are easy to generate when the front sleeve connecting structure and the rear raglan sleeve structure are directly combined, for example, the front sleeve connecting structure is integrally formed with the clothing body at a sleeve position, the sleeve position of the rear raglan sleeve structure moves relatively downwards, the front clothing body and the rear clothing body are stressed unevenly if the front sleeve connecting structure and the rear sleeve connecting structure are improperly processed, so that the phenomenon of front hanging or rear hanging of the clothing body occurs, meanwhile, in the sleeve arc and sleeve arc matching process, the problems of sleeve lifting, uneven sleeve allowance or uneven sleeve piece in a three-dimensional state can be generated, and the problems not only influence the integral shaping effect of the clothing, but also can reduce the wearing comfort and structural stability of the clothing. In addition, the prior clothing platemaking method is designed aiming at a single sleeve type structure, and lacks systematic platemaking method guidance for a front continuous sleeve and rear oversleeve combined structure. In actual operation, plate making personnel generally rely on experience to repeatedly adjust sleeve piece, and plate making efficiency is lower and be difficult to guarantee structural stability. Disclosure of Invention The invention aims to solve the problems of unbalanced clothing body structure, mismatched sleeve arch line and uneven sleeve piece in a plane or three-dimensional state, which are easily caused when the front sleeve connecting structure and the rear sleeve falling structure are combined and applied. In order to solve the technical problems, the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme: In a first aspect, a method for making a plate with a front continuous sleeve and a rear sleeve is provided, comprising the following steps: Drawing a raglan sleeve structure based on clothing design requirements to form a basic paper pattern comprising a front piece and a rear piece, wherein the basic paper pattern comprises a sleeve fat line, a perpendicular bisector, a sleeve elbow line, a sleeve midline, a sleeve bottom line and a sleeve opening line; respectively obtaining a front sleeve fertilizer line and a rear sleeve fertilizer line on the front piece and the rear piece, respectively taking a vertical line at the middle point of the front sleeve fertilizer line and the middle point of the rear sleeve fertilizer line to form a front middle vertical line and a rear middle vertical line; the front middle vertical line and the rear middle vertical line respectively intersect with the front armhole line and the rear armhole line to form sleeve part datum points, offset control points are arranged at sleeve elbow lines and sleeve opening lines, and a front sleeve structure control line and a rear sleeve structure control line are formed by connecting the sleeve part datum points and the offset control points; Carrying out translation treatment on the front sleeve structure control line to form new structure control points with the sleeve center line and the sleeve opening line respectively; Taking the translated structure control line as a reference to form a vertical line, forming an intersection point with the extension line of the front middle vertical line and the rear middle vertical line, and constructing a half-sleeve frame structure by connecting the intersection point with the middle vertical line; Acquiring a front armhole arc line, forming a new front armhole arc line through symmetrical transformation, and symmetrically processing the front armhole arc line by taking a front perpendicular bisector as a symmetry axis to form a front continuous sleeve structure arc line; Translating the front sleeve structure control line to form a front sleeve suture structure, wher