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CN-122013421-A - Moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm suede fabric and preparation process thereof

CN122013421ACN 122013421 ACN122013421 ACN 122013421ACN-122013421-A

Abstract

The invention discloses a moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm suede fabric and a preparation process thereof, and relates to the technical field of fabrics. The invention realizes the balance promotion of three performances of moisture absorption, ventilation and heat preservation through the cooperative design of the double-layer integrated weaving structure and the special-shaped section fiber, wherein the inner layer adopts the cross-shaped or Y-shaped special-shaped section polyester filament yarn, the longitudinal grooves on the surface of the fiber form capillary channels to generate a strong wicking effect, the surface layer adopts hydrophilic cellulose fiber, the unidirectional conduction of sweat from the inner layer to the outer layer is realized by utilizing the hydrophobic gradient of the inner layer/hydrophilic wettability gradient of the surface layer, and the inner layer is kept dry. Meanwhile, the tuck coil is connected to form a gap layer between the two layers to serve as a static air layer, and the thermal insulation property is jointly improved by combining inner fluff, so that the air circulation is ensured by integrally weaving the non-adhesive layer structure, and the technical problem of stuffiness and air impermeability of the traditional thermal insulation fabric is solved.

Inventors

  • CHEN SUHUA

Assignees

  • 江苏莱益纺织科技有限公司

Dates

Publication Date
20260512
Application Date
20260325

Claims (9)

  1. 1. The moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm suede fabric is characterized by being woven and formed at one time by a double-sided circular knitting machine through tuck stitch, and comprising a surface layer (1) and a lining layer (2) which are integrally woven and cannot be peeled; The inner layer (2) is formed by weaving and napping fine denier special-shaped section polyester filaments, the sections of the fine denier special-shaped section polyester filaments are cross-shaped or Y-shaped, the special-shaped degree of the special-shaped section is controlled to be 2.8-3.5, the fineness of monofilaments is 0.8 dtex-1.2 dtex, and the breaking strength is more than or equal to 3.5cN/dtex; the knitting structure of the inner layer (2) is a composite structure of plain stitch and tuck stitch, wherein the distribution density of the tuck stitch is that one tuck stitch (3) is arranged in every 4-6 courses, and the raised part formed by the tuck stitch (3) is used as a raised anchor point; The surface layer (1) is formed by weaving hydrophilic short fiber yarns, the hydrophilic short fiber yarns are blended yarns of at least one of cotton fibers, viscose fibers and modal fibers and lyocell fibers, the lyocell fibers account for 20% -35% in the blending proportion, the single yarn fineness is 12 tex-18 tex, and the twist is 700-900 twists/m; The inner layer (2) is connected with the surface layer (1) through a tuck coil (3) of the tuck stitch, and the tuck coil (3) is formed by hooking yarns of the surface layer (1) by yarns of the inner layer (2) in the weaving process, so that a gap layer of 0.3 mm-0.8 mm is formed between the two layers; the nap formed by napping is uniformly distributed on the surface of the inner layer (2), the height of the nap is 0.8 mm-1.5 mm, the nap height variation coefficient CV value is less than or equal to 12%, the nap density is 120-180 pieces/cm < 2>, and the root of the nap is embedded into a raised part formed by a tuck coil (3) of the tuck tissue.
  2. 2. The moisture-absorbing and breathable double-sided warm-up fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fine denier special-shaped cross-section polyester filament yarn of the inner layer (2) is a cross-shaped cross section, four arms of the cross-shaped cross section are equal in length, the ratio of the arm length to the arm width is 3:1-4:1, the included angle between two adjacent arms is 90 degrees, the depth of a longitudinal groove on the surface of the fiber is 0.2-0.5 μm, the width of the groove is 0.5-1.0 μm, and the groove extends continuously along the axial direction of the fiber.
  3. 3. The moisture-absorbing and breathable double-sided warm-up fabric according to claim 1, wherein the surface layer (1) further comprises 3% -8% of spandex filaments by mass, and the spandex filaments and the hydrophilic short fiber yarns are fed in parallel for knitting in a bare yarn form, so that the surface layer (1) has bidirectional elasticity, the elastic recovery rate is more than or equal to 85%, and the elastic elongation rate is 30% -50%.
  4. 4. The moisture-absorbing and breathable double-sided warm-textured fabric according to claim 1, wherein the inner layer (2) is further loaded with phase-change microcapsules, the core material of the phase-change microcapsules is paraffin or fatty acid phase-change material, the wall of the phase-change microcapsules is melamine resin or polyurethane, the particle size of the microcapsules is 1-5 μm, the phase-change microcapsules are attached to the surface of the fibers of the inner layer (2) in a padding or coating mode, the loading amount is 5-15 g/m < 2 >, and the phase-change enthalpy value is more than or equal to 30J/g.
  5. 5. The moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm pile fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that it meets the following performance criteria simultaneously: The air permeability is more than or equal to 280mm/s (according to GB/T5453-1997 standard test, the pressure difference is 100Pa, and the test area is 20cm <2 >; A one-way moisture index of greater than or equal to 200 (as tested by AATCC 195-2017 standard); the wicking height is that the inner layer (2) is more than or equal to 120mm/30min, the surface layer (1) is more than or equal to 90mm/30min (according to FZ/T01071-2008 standard test); The thermal resistance is more than or equal to 0.045m2.K/W (according to GB/T11048-2008 standard test, flat plate method); The anti-pilling grade is more than or equal to 3.5 grade (according to GB/T4802.1-2008 standard test, pilling box method, 4 hours of turnover); The retention rate of fluff after 10 times of washing is more than or equal to 92 percent, and the one-way moisture permeability index attenuation rate after 10 times of washing is less than or equal to 15 percent (according to GB/T8629-2017 standard washing).
  6. 6. A process for preparing the moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm pile fabric according to any one of claims 1-5, comprising the steps of: step S1 weaving procedure Weaving by adopting a double-sided circular knitting machine, wherein the cylinder diameter of the double-sided circular knitting machine is 30-36 inches, and the machine number is 24-32G; the inner layer (2) yarns adopt the fine denier special-shaped section polyester filaments, and the surface layer (1) yarns adopt the hydrophilic staple fiber yarns; Setting the yarn length of the inner layer (2) to be 28cm/100 to 32cm/100, the yarn length of the surface layer (1) to be 30cm/100 to 34cm/100, and the difference between the yarn length of the inner layer (2) and the yarn length of the surface layer (1) to be 1.5cm/100 to 3.0 cm/100; The inner layer (2) adopts a positive yarn feeding mechanism, the yarn feeding tension is 2 cN-4 cN, the surface layer (1) adopts a negative yarn feeding mechanism, and the yarn feeding tension is 4 cN-6 cN; the weaving speed is 18-22 r/min, the workshop temperature is controlled at 25 ℃ plus or minus 2 ℃, and the relative humidity is controlled at 65% plusor minus 5%; After weaving to form grey cloth, standing for 24-48 hours at normal temperature to fully release internal stress of the yarn; Step S2, scheduled procedure Sending the static grey cloth into a setting machine for pre-setting treatment; setting the temperature to 185-195 ℃; Setting time is 40-60 seconds; The overfeeding rate is +5% to +8%; The breadth stretching rate is +3% to +5%; naturally cooling the shaped grey cloth to room temperature in a tension-free state; Step S3, pretreatment and dyeing process The method comprises the steps of firstly performing biological polishing pretreatment on the fabric containing the cotton surface layer (1), adding acid cellulase in a liquid flow dyeing machine, wherein the enzyme dosage is 1% -3% (owf), the bath ratio is 1:8-1:12, the pH value is 4.8-5.2, the temperature is 50-55 ℃, the treatment time is 30-50 minutes, and liquid discharge is inactivated after the treatment; then adopting a one-bath two-step dyeing process: The first section of dyeing, namely adjusting the pH value to 4.5-5.5, adding 1-5% (owf) of disperse dye, heating to 125-130 ℃ at the heating rate of 1.0-1.5 ℃ per minute, preserving heat for 30-50 minutes, and then cooling to below 80 ℃ at the cooling rate of 1.5-2.0 ℃ per minute; reducing and cleaning, namely adding 2-4 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 2-3 g/L of sodium hydroxide, and treating for 20-30 minutes at 80-85 ℃ to sufficiently remove floating color and oligomers on the surface of the fiber; The second stage of dyeing, namely adjusting the pH value to be neutral, adding 1% -4% (owf) of reactive dye and 40% -80 g/L of anhydrous sodium sulfate, heating to 60 ℃ -65 ℃ at 1.0 ℃ per minute, preserving heat for 20-30 minutes, and then adding 15% -25 g/L of calcined soda for fixation for 40-60 minutes; Sequentially performing hot water washing, soaping, warm water washing and cold water washing after dyeing, wherein the soaping temperature is 90-95 ℃, the using amount of the soaping agent is 1-2 g/L, and the soaping time is 15-20 minutes; step S4, napping procedure A 24-roller single-sided fuzzing machine is adopted to carry out fuzzing treatment on the inner layer (2); the carding roller clothing is selected from 32# to 36# fine clothing, and the inclination angle of the clothing is 30-35 degrees; the rotation speed of the fluffing roller is 120 r/min-150 r/min, and the rotation direction of the fluffing roller is opposite to the running direction of the fabric; Control of fabric tension: inlet tension of 2.0 kg-2.5 kg, intermediate tension of 2.5 kg-3.5 kg, the outlet tension is 2.0 kg-2.5 kg; The cloth moving speed is 10 m/min-18 m/min; The raising times are 3-5 times, wherein the raising speed of the 1 st time is light raising, the raising roller rotating speed is 100-120 r/min, the tension is 2.0-2.5 kg, the raising roller rotating speed is 130-150 r/min, the tension is 2.8-3.5 kg, the raising roller rotating speed is 110-130 r/min, and the tension is 2.2-2.8 kg; Brushing hair after napping, namely brushing hair for 1-2 times along the hair direction by adopting a bristle brush, wherein the rotating speed of a brush roller is 80-100 r/min, and removing floating hair; Step S5 functional finishing procedure The following finishing is sequentially carried out: (5.1) hydrophilic finishing, namely adopting a padding method, wherein finishing liquid comprises 15-25 g/L of hydrophilic polyester polyether copolymer, 1-3 g/L of penetrating agent JFC, and the padding residual rate is 65% -75%, and the padding is carried out once, and then drying is carried out at 140-160 ℃ for 60-90 seconds; (5.2) antistatic finishing, namely adopting an impregnation method, adding 2% -4% (owf) of polyether ester antistatic agent into the mixture according to a bath ratio of 1:10-1:15, treating the mixture for 20-30 minutes at 40-50 ℃, and drying the mixture after dehydration; (5.3) softening finishing, namely adding 3% -5% (owf) of weak cation softener by adopting an impregnation method, treating for 15-20 minutes at 30-40 ℃, and drying at 100-120 ℃ after dehydration; If the phase change microcapsule is required to be loaded, a padding process is added after hydrophilic finishing and before antistatic finishing, wherein the finishing liquid comprises 10% -20% of phase change microcapsule emulsion, 3% -5% of adhesive, 0.5% -1.0% of cross-linking agent and 70% -80% of padding residual rate, and then the phase change microcapsule emulsion is pre-baked for 2-3 minutes at 100-110 ℃ and then baked for 2-3 minutes at 130-140 ℃; Step S6, a finished product shaping procedure Adopting a needle plate tentering setting machine, setting the setting temperature to be 150-165 ℃, and setting the overfeeding rate to be +2% to +4% for 40-60 seconds; Finished product width control the deviation is less than or equal to +/-1.0 cm, the gram weight control deviation is less than or equal to +/-3 percent, the shrinkage is controlled to be less than or equal to 3 percent in the warp direction the weft direction is less than or equal to 3 percent.
  7. 7. The preparation process according to claim 6, wherein in the biological polishing pretreatment of step S3, the enzyme activity of the acidic cellulase is 1000-1500U/g, 0.1% -0.3% acetic acid is added into a treatment bath to adjust the pH value, in the one-bath two-step dyeing process, the disperse dye is low-temperature disperse dye with sublimation fastness being more than or equal to 4, and 1-2 g/L glacial acetic acid is used for neutralizing residual alkali after reduction cleaning.
  8. 8. The process according to claim 6, wherein in the napping step of step S4, the protruding height of the needle tip of the napping roller card clothing is 2.5 mm-3.5 mm, the surface roughness Ra of the card clothing is less than or equal to 0.4 μm, the fabric is humidified before napping to make the moisture regain of the fabric reach 8% -12%, the fabric is left for 2-4 hours after humidification to make the moisture evenly distributed, the temperature of the napping workshop is controlled at 22-26 ℃, and the relative humidity is controlled at 60% -70%.
  9. 9. The preparation process according to claim 6, wherein 0.5% -1.5% of citric acid is further added into the hydrophilic finishing liquid in the step S5 as a cross-linking agent for improving the washability of the hydrophilic finishing agent, and the hydrophilic finishing agent and the fiber are subjected to a cross-linking reaction by adopting high-temperature baking at 170 ℃ -180 ℃ for 30-60 seconds after hydrophilic finishing.

Description

Moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm suede fabric and preparation process thereof Technical Field The invention relates to the technical field of fabrics, in particular to a moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm suede fabric and a preparation process thereof. Background With the improvement of the living standard of people and the improvement of the wearing comfort requirement, the fabric with the functions of warming, moisture absorption and ventilation becomes a research hot spot in the field of functional textiles. At present, the thermal fabric mainly adopts a raised fabric or a composite double-layer structure. The existing double-sided velvet fabric mostly adopts an attaching process to compound an outer wind-proof layer with an inner thermal layer, or forms a velvet structure through single-sided velvet The existing double-sided warm suede fabric mainly has the following defects: First, warmth retention and air permeability and hygroscopicity are difficult to balance. The traditional fabric is improved in warmth retention property, a compact structure or a lamination composite technology is adopted, and the adhesive layer blocks air circulation, so that the air permeability is poor, and the fabric is sultry to wear. Meanwhile, the inner layer is mostly made of polyester with a common circular section, so that the capillary effect is weak, sweat cannot be led out in time, wet and cold feeling is easily generated by accumulation in the inner layer, and the requirements of heat preservation and dryness are difficult to meet. Second, the moisture transfer function is single, lacking a one-way moisture transfer design. The existing product has similar inner and outer layer material properties, cannot form wettability gradient, sweat is conducted in two directions or diffused irregularly, and directional conveying from the inner layer to the outer layer is difficult to realize. Sweat can not be quickly led out and evaporated, so that the inner layer is wet and cold, and wearing comfort is affected. Third, fluff durability is poor. The fluff of the traditional raised fabric is fixed only by the friction force among fibers, and is lack of an anchoring structure, so that the fluff is easy to fall off after washing. Meanwhile, the napping process is controlled improperly, so that naps are uneven in length and distribution, the anti-pilling performance of the surface layer is poor, and the appearance quality and the service life of the product are affected. Fourth, the process control is inadequate. The existing preparation process lacks of fine control on links such as yarn tension, dyeing, napping parameters and the like, and the product has high shrinkage and large quality fluctuation and is difficult to realize stable production. Aiming at dyeing of polyester and cellulose fiber bi-component fabric, the problems of easy staining, low color fastness and the like are solved Disclosure of Invention The invention aims to solve the problems and provides the moisture-absorbing breathable double-sided warm suede fabric. In order to achieve the aim, the invention adopts the following technical scheme that the double-sided circular knitting machine is formed by once weaving a tuck stitch, and comprises a surface layer and a lining layer which are integrally woven and can not be stripped; The inner layer is formed by braiding fine denier special-shaped section polyester filaments and napping, the section of the fine denier special-shaped section polyester filaments is cross-shaped or Y-shaped, the special-shaped degree of the special-shaped section is controlled to be 2.8-3.5, the fineness of monofilaments is 0.8 dtex-1.2 dtex, and the breaking strength is more than or equal to 3.5cN/dtex; The knitting structure of the inner layer is a composite structure of plain stitch and tuck stitch, wherein the distribution density of the tuck stitch is that one tuck stitch is arranged in every 4-6 courses, and the raised part formed by the tuck stitch is used as a raised anchor point; The surface layer is formed by weaving hydrophilic short fiber yarns, the hydrophilic short fiber yarns are blended yarns of at least one of cotton fibers, viscose fibers and modal fibers and lyocell fibers, the lyocell fibers account for 20% -35% in the blending proportion, the single yarn fineness is 12 tex-18 tex, and the twist is 700-900 twists/meter; the inner layer and the surface layer are connected through a tuck coil of the tuck coil structure, and the tuck coil is formed by hooking surface layer yarns by inner layer yarns in the weaving process, so that a gap layer of 0.3 mm-0.8 mm is formed between the inner layer yarns and the surface layer yarns; The surface of the inner layer is uniformly distributed with naps formed by napping, the height of the naps is 0.8 mm-1.5 mm, the variation coefficient CV value of the naps height is less than or equal to 12 percent, the nap density is 120-180 pieces/cm < 2 >, the roots o