Search

CN-122028890-A - Compacted powder having a powdery phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8.0 or less, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil

CN122028890ACN 122028890 ACN122028890 ACN 122028890ACN-122028890-A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a compacted powder comprising at least a) a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and C) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising i) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8 at 25 ℃, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid, and e) at least one non-volatile oil, said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to components a), b), C), d) and e), a content of water ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the method comprising at least the steps of 1) injecting said intermediate composition into a mould, preferably via the base of the mould, and 2) removing water from said intermediate composition, preferably simultaneously with said injection.

Inventors

  • V. Sheriff
  • C. Villa

Assignees

  • 莱雅公司

Dates

Publication Date
20260512
Application Date
20240527
Priority Date
20230809

Claims (20)

  1. 1. A solid composition in the form of a compacted powder, comprising in particular a physiologically acceptable medium and at least containing: a) A powdered phase in an amount greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, B) At least one non-volatile oil, and C) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil, and D) At least one kind of emulsifying system is used for the preparation of the emulsion, the at least one emulsifying system comprises: i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25 ℃, and Ii) at least one lysophospholipid, and E) At least one hydrophilic gelling agent; The composition is obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), f) water in an amount ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, via a process comprising at least the following steps: 1) Injecting the intermediate composition into a mold, preferably via the base of the mold, and 2) Water is removed from the intermediate composition, preferably at least partially simultaneously with the injecting step.
  2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 3.0% by weight and preferably less than 2.0% by weight of water, or even no water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a solids content of greater than or equal to 90.0%, still better 95.0%, or even 97.0%.
  4. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of pulverulent phase is greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight, more particularly ranging from 50% to 80% by weight and still better from 60% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  5. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pulverulent phase comprises at least one filler, and more preferably at least one filler and at least one particulate dye.
  6. 6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein the filler used in the composition of the invention is present in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. 7. The composition of claim 5 or 6, wherein the filler is selected from talc, natural mica, synthetic mica such as fluorophlogopite, magnesium aluminum silicate, lauroyl lysine, natural starch such as natural corn starch with INCI name: corn (corn) starch, and mixtures thereof.
  8. 8. The composition of claim 5, wherein the particulate dye is selected from the group consisting of pigments, nacres, reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.
  9. 9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the particulate dye is selected from the group consisting of: -titanium dioxide (CI: 77891); yellow iron oxide (CI: 77492), red iron oxide (CI: 77491), black iron oxide (CI: 77499), and mixtures thereof; mother-of-pearl, such as those based on mica covered with titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide; -bismuth oxychloride; -mixtures thereof.
  10. 10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the pigment content is less than or equal to 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. 11. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the mother-of-pearl content is less than or equal to 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight and preferably from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  12. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile oil is present in the composition in a content preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  13. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile oil is chosen from synthetic esters, fatty alcohols having branched and/or unsaturated carbon chains containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, liquid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
  14. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is selected from those having the following INCI names: -polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer (and) polydimethylsiloxane; -polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopentasiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers; Polydimethyl siloxane (and) polydimethyl siloxane methyl siloxane cross-linked polymer and more particularly polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers.
  15. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is present in a solids content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  16. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25 ℃ is selected from sorbitan esters, in particular sorbitan monoisostearate.
  17. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of nonionic surfactants having an HLB at 25 ℃ of less than 8.0 is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight and more particularly ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  18. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lysophospholipid is selected from: lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC), also known as lysolecithin Lysophosphatidylinositol (LPI) Lysophosphatidylethanolamine (LPE) Lysophosphatidyl acid (LPA) -Mixtures thereof.
  19. 19. The composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the lysophospholipid is a lysophosphatidylcholine or a Lysolecithin (LPC) having the structure: wherein R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.
  20. 20. Composition according to claim 19, wherein lysophosphatidylcholine or lysolecithin is present in a soybean seed extract, in particular an extract of wild soybean (soybean) seed extract under the INCI name.

Description

Compacted powder having a powdery phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8.0 or less, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil The invention relates to a solid cosmetic and/or care cosmetic composition for keratin materials in the form of a compacted powder, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) A powdery phase in an amount greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, B) At least one non-volatile oil, and C) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil, and D) At least one emulsifying system comprising: i) At least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25 ℃, and Ii) at least one lysophospholipid, and E) At least one hydrophilic gelling agent; The compacted powder is prepared from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to components a), b), c), d) and e), 30 to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition ("water-based wet process"). The invention also relates to an intermediate composition for preparing such a cosmetic composition, a method for manufacturing the cosmetic composition, and a method for coating skin using the cosmetic composition. Skin care and/or cosmetic compositions are commonly used to impart an attractive color to skin (e.g., the face) and also to mask skin imperfections (e.g., redness, marks, fine lines, and wrinkles). The function of the above-mentioned powders is mainly to impart colour, mattness and, even for those more particularly intended for facial skin, to improve the permanence of the foundation, or to impart hiding power (foundation, eye shadow or face powder) when used alone. These manifestations are particularly popular with users with respect to their light, soft, non-tacky aspects or non-greasy feel. Generally, these compositions combine a generally dominant powdered phase with a binding phase generally characterized by a liquid fatty phase. The powdery phase is essentially formed of a filler combined with pigments, the amount of which is modified to provide the desired cosmetic effect, typically a coloring effect. In order to obtain compositions in solid, compacted form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted cosmetic powders formed from a mixture of powder and a fatty binder, these compacted cosmetic powders being shaped, for example by compression. However, these compacted powders have in particular the disadvantage of being fragile. Thus, as the percentage of pigment in the product increases, its manufacture and compaction becomes complex or even impossible to perform at an industrial level in view of quality and productivity requirements. Furthermore, the large amount of powdery phase in the compacted powder does not impart satisfactory organoleptic properties when the powder is taken from its packaging and/or applied to the skin surface to be made up. Furthermore, it is difficult for formulation designers to obtain products with good permanence on the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if the amount of fat binder is increased, the composition will tend to wax, i.e. harden during use to such an extent that it prevents access. Among the qualities sought for compacting cosmetic powders, mention may be made of: good cohesion and homogenization of the composition, The impact strength is good and the impact strength is good, The quality of the product is good and, An appropriate hardness of the material to be treated, Good adhesion to the skin and good adhesion to the skin, Good access, whatever the applicator (in terms of sufficient product quantity); comfort of application, not to cause skin to dry out, A good powder durability, which is good in terms of the powder, Good organoleptic properties when taken out, Good organoleptic properties when the product is applied. In the prior art, in particular in the patents EP2640343B1, EP2640342B1, EP2773428B1, FR2982153B1 and FR2985181B1, it is known practice to manufacture such compacted powders from an aqueous intermediate composition comprising 30% to 60% by weight of water, a pulverulent phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer, an emulsifying system and at least one non-volatile oil in a "water-based wet process" for injecting one or more powders having a given hue into a corresponding mold or cup. The intermediate aqueous and oily composition fluidizes and forms the powder into a slurry, forms a shape by injection into a mold or cup, and then removes the aqueous phase, especially by placing the composition under vacuum during the injection step, followed by oven drying to obtain the final compacted powder. However, some of these formulations are not entirely satisfactory when it comes to taking the powder from