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EP-4114521-B1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION

EP4114521B1EP 4114521 B1EP4114521 B1EP 4114521B1EP-4114521-B1

Inventors

  • SENNELIER PORTET, Bénédicte
  • REYNAUD, ROMAIN
  • SCANDOLERA, AMANDINE
  • DE TOLLENAERE, Morgane

Dates

Publication Date
20260506
Application Date
20210305

Claims (15)

  1. Cosmetic active agent comprising a Gardenia fruit extract and a solvent, wherein the solvent is a eutectic solvent having a pH of at least 5.
  2. Cosmetic active agent according to claim 1, wherein the eutectic solvent has a pH of at least 5.5, more preferably of at least 6, and most preferably of at least 7.
  3. Cosmetic active agent according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the components of the eutectic solvent are of natural origin.
  4. Cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the eutectic solvent comprises betaine, glycerol and water.
  5. Cosmetic active agent according to claim 4, wherein the eutectic solvent comprises from about 30 to about 40 wt% of betaine, from about 35 to about 45 wt% of glycerol, and from about 20 to about 30 wt% of water, more preferably about 35 wt% of betaine, about 40 wt% of glycerol, and about 25 wt% of water.
  6. Cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the concentration of the Gardenia fruit extract in the cosmetic active agent is from about 0.01 to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.1 wt%.
  7. Cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the Gardenia fruit extract comprises at least 1 wt% of Crocins, more preferably at least 10 wt% of Crocins, and most preferably at least 25 wt% of Crocins.
  8. Cosmetic composition comprising the cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 and a cosmetically acceptable excipient.
  9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, which is a skin care composition, and in particular an anti-ageing skin care composition.
  10. Method of reducing the signs of ageing in skin, comprising the step of topically applying the cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or the cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9 to the skin, in particular to facial skin.
  11. Method of protecting the skin against oxidative stress, comprising the step of topically applying the cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or the cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9 to the skin, in particular to facial skin.
  12. Method of protecting the skin against the effects of blue light, comprising the step of topically applying the cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or the cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9 to the skin, in particular to facial skin.
  13. Non-therapeutic method of protecting an individual's melatonin cycle, comprising the step of topically applying the cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or the cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9 to the skin, in particular to facial skin.
  14. Non-therapeutic method of improving an individual's sleep, comprising the step of topically applying the cosmetic active agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or the cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9 to the skin, in particular to facial skin.
  15. Use of a Gardenia fruit extract for improving an individual's sleep.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a Gardenia fruit extract. In modern society, digital technology is becoming ever more common, leading to an increased exposure to blue light. Blue light is a type of high-energy light and is part of the visible light spectrum, having a wavelength between 400-495 nm. Typical blue light sources include mobile phones, computers, tablets, televisions, and lights. Much of the exposure arises from light emitting diodes (LEDs). Increasingly, people are exposed to blue light via everyday technology. The 2015 Pew Research Center study found that 68% of U.S. adults own a smartphone and 45% own a tablet. The study also found that levels of technology ownership vary by age; 86% of Americans 18-29 and 83% of those 30-49 own smartphones. In contrast, computer ownership rates are lower for older Americans. Blue light seems to affect the skin and can damage cells. Moreover, Dong et al. demonstrated that blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm, affecting people's sleep quality. Melatonin is a well-known sleep-related hormone naturally secreted by our organism (brain and skin), on a daily cycle. Its production peak happens at night and plays a crucial role in our capacity to fall asleep and in our sleep quality. In addition, melatonin also acts as a powerful anti-ageing agent, thanks to its strong antioxidant properties, and the triggering of a biological defenses cascade through its binding to the melatonin membrane receptor MT1R. Exposure to blue light leads to a disturbance of the melatonin production rhythm, causing skin ageing (loss of antioxidant defences and damages to the mitochondria) and a perturbation of the sleep-related functions (difficulties to fall asleep, waking-up several times at night, fatigue in the morning). This results in a premature ageing of the skin, which is more exposed to external aggressions and unable to restore itself during resting phases of the human body. Korean Patent application KR-A2010/0038797 discloses skin ageing compositions containing a complex crude drug of the Gardeniae Fructus and Coptidis Rhizoma, the Scutellariae Radix, the Phellodendri Cortex, the Forsythiae Fructus, the Lonicerae Flos as active ingredient with betain, glycerol, water and butylenglycol as solvents. US Patent application US-A-2014/141082 discloses compositions comprising at least one of crocin and crocetin, which are extracted, enriched and/or purified from natural source such as fruits of gardenia. It is therefore an objective of the present invention to provide a cosmetic means for preventing the negative effects caused by the exposure to blue light. This problem has been solved by the cosmetic active agent and cosmetic composition of the present invention. In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic active agent comprising a Gardenia fruit extract. The Gardenia plant, which is also called cape jasmine or danh-danh, is an evergreen flowering plant of the coffee family Rubiaceae. It originated in Asia and is most commonly found growing wild in Vietnam, Southern China, Korea, Taiwan, Japan, Myanmar, India and Bangladesh. There are around 250 kinds of Gardenia in the world. Throughout the present disclosure, the term "Gardenia" is meant to cover all species of the genus Gardenia, including Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia angustifolia, Gardenia augusta, Gardenia florida, Gardenia grandiflora, Gardenia radicans, Gardenia longisepala, Gardenia maruba, and Gardenia pictorum, and in particular Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis. Traditionally, the Gardenia fruit has been used in oral applications of folk medicine for treating inflammation, headache, edema, fever, hepatic disorders, and hypertension. The fragrant flowers are also used for scenting tea, and are sometimes even eaten raw as a delicacy, pickled or preserved in honey. Nowadays, Gardenia plants are mainly exploited for food additives, dyestuffs, and as ornamental plant. Gardenia fruits have a red color due to natural carotenoid pigments. In particular, they contain crocetin, crocin, and other crocetin esters. The term "Crocins" as used throughout this disclosure, is meant to encompass the aglycon crocetin, its di-gentiobioside derivative crocin, as well as other crocetin mono- or diglucosides and any other crocetin derivatives having the 8,8'-diapocarotenedioic acid core. Crocetin is a natural apocarotenoid dicarboxylic acid that is found in the Crocus sativus L. flower and Gardenia jasminoides fruits. It has the following structure: Crocin is the diester formed from the disaccharide gentiobiose and the dicarboxylic acid crocetin. It has the following structure: Crocin is one of the main components in Gardenia fruit extract. Crocins are particularly interesting as they are among the few carotenoids soluble in water, which makes them suitable as a coloring agent for food applications. One of the key disadvantages of the Crocins is their notorious instability, in particular due to