Search

EP-4125780-B1 - IMPROVING THE FASTNESS TO WASHING OF PIGMENT-CONTAINING DYES BY USING AN OXIDATIVE PRETREATMENT AGENT

EP4125780B1EP 4125780 B1EP4125780 B1EP 4125780B1EP-4125780-B1

Inventors

  • KRUCK, Constanze
  • Hilbig, Sandra
  • MOCH, MELANIE
  • KESSLER-BECKER, DANIELA

Dates

Publication Date
20260513
Application Date
20210201

Claims (14)

  1. Method for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the order indicated: (1) applying a pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibers, (2) allowing the pretreatment agent applied in step (1) to act on the keratin fibers for a period of 2 to 45 minutes, (3) rinsing off the pretreatment agent with water, (4) applying a coloring agent (F) to the keratin fibers, (5) allowing the coloring agent applied in step (4) to act on the keratin fibers for a period of 15 seconds to 45 minutes, and (6) rinsing the dye agent with water, wherein - the pretreatment agent in a cosmetic carrier (V-1), and - the coloring agent in a cosmetic carrier (F-1) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (F-2) at least one pigment, characterized in that there is a period of no more than 3 hours between steps (3) and (4).
  2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one oxidizing agent (V-1) from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  3. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains (V-1) hydrogen peroxide and (V-2) at least one persulfate from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent - (V-1) 0.1 to 12.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.5 to 8.0 wt.%, and most preferably 3.0 to 6.0 wt.% hydrogen peroxide.
  5. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) - based on the total weight of the pretreatment agent - (V-2) contains one or more persulfates from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 5.0 to 30.0 wt.%, preferably 8.0 to 27.0 wt.%, more preferably 11.0 to 24.0 wt.%, and most preferably 14.0 to 21.0 wt. %.
  6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (F-1) with at least one secondary amino group.
  7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (F-1) comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino) where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group.
  8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (F-1) comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II)
  9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the dye (F) contains, based on the total weight of the dye, one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (F-1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably from 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%.
  10. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the coloring agent (F) contains at least inorganic pigment (F-2), which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, and/or colored pigments based on mica or glimmer, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride.
  11. Method according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one organic pigment (F-2) which is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915, and/or CI 75470.
  12. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the dye (F) contains - based on the total weight of the dye - one or more pigments (F-2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.
  13. Method according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the total amount of direct dyes contained in the dyeing agent (F) - based on the total weight of the dyeing agent (F) - is less than 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.05 wt.%, more preferably less than 0.01 wt.%, and most preferably less than 0.001 wt.%.
  14. Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, comprising the following steps in the order indicated: (1) Applying the pretreatment agent (V) to the keratin fibers, (2) allowing the pretreatment agent applied in step (1) to act on the keratin fibers for a period of 2 to 30 minutes, and preferably 2 to 20 minutes, (3) Rinsing off the pretreatment agent with water, (4) applying the dye (F) to the keratin fibers, (5) Allowing the dye applied in step (4) to act on the keratin fibers for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, and preferably 1 to 15 minutes, and (6) Rinsing the dye off with water.

Description

The present application relates to a cosmetic process for coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of at least two different agents (V) and (F). Agent (V) is a pretreatment agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. The coloring agent (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (F-1) and at least one pigment (F-2) in a cosmetic carrier. Altering the shape and color of keratinous material, especially human hair, is an important area of modern cosmetics. Depending on the desired color, professionals are familiar with various dyeing systems for changing hair color. For permanent, intense colorations with good colorfastness and gray coverage, oxidative dyes are typically used. These dyes contain oxidative dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which react with oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide to form the actual dyes. Oxidative dyes are characterized by very long-lasting color results. When using direct dyes, pre-formed pigments diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, dyes produced with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Dyes made with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes. The use of color pigments is well-known for temporary color changes to hair and/or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are present in the coloring formulation in the form of small particles and are simply deposited on the hair fibers and/or skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed completely after a few washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name "hair mascara." WO 2017/108828 A1 This concerns agents for dyeing keratin fibers which contain at least one triaylmethane dye, one aminosilicone and one surfactant. US 2013/149358 A1 Describes a method for producing long-lasting stains on keratin substrates, which involves the application of a specific amino silicone and a non-spherical, particulate material, the latter of which can also be a pigment. Subject of DE 10 2014 218006 A1 is a packaging unit for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising a first container with a first agent and a second container with a second agent. The first agent contains an amino silicone and a direct-acting dye, and the second agent contains a specific amount of an oxidizing agent. If a user desires particularly long-lasting color, the use of oxidative dyes has so far been their only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative dyes also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, the search for alternative, high-performance coloring methods remains a challenge. One possible alternative coloring system that has recently gained increasing attention is based on the use of colored pigments. Dyeing with pigments offers several significant advantages. Since the pigments adhere only to the keratin material, particularly the hair fibers, unwanted colors can be removed quickly, easily, and completely, allowing users to return to their original hair color immediately and effortlessly. This makes the dyeing process especially attractive for consumers who don't want to regularly dye their hair. Recent studies have addressed the problem of the limited durability of this coloring system. In this context, it was found that the wash fastness of color results obtained with pigments could be significantly improved by combining the pigments with certain amino-functionalized silicone polymers. Furthermore, by selecting particularly suitable pigments and pigment concentrations, a lighter color result could be achieved on dark hair, making it possible with this coloring system to achieve a level of lightening that was previously only possible with oxidative hair treatments (bleaching agents). Despite these many advantages, the pigment-based dyeing system still has some disadvantages, stemming from the limited penetration depth of the pigments into the keratinous material. Since the pigments do not diffuse into the keratin material or fibers, but merely deposit on the surface of the keratin material as a coating or film, the wash fastness of dyes produced with this system still requires improvement. Even though a significant improvement in wash fastness has been achieved by selecting particularly suitable pigments or aminosilicones, it is still not optimal. The objective of the present application was therefore to discover a pigment-based dyeing process that achieves intense colorations with improved wash fastness. The keratin materials, and in particular hair, dyed using this process should retain their color regardless of hair type and other previously applied cos