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EP-4568640-B1 - SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

EP4568640B1EP 4568640 B1EP4568640 B1EP 4568640B1EP-4568640-B1

Inventors

  • FAURE, Alexia Marie Marthe
  • JANSSEN, ANNE
  • RADOMSKY, Karina

Dates

Publication Date
20260513
Application Date
20230803

Claims (15)

  1. A sunscreen composition in the form of an emulsion comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate and one or more alkanediol with the proviso that the composition is free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
  2. The sunscreen composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is selected in the range from 0.1 to 10 wt.-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, most preferably from 1 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  3. The sunscreen composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the diethylhexyl sebacate is at least 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  4. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of diethylhexyl sebacate is less or equal to 25 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  5. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the the ratio of the total amount of the diethylhexyl sebacate to the total amount of BEMT is selected in the range from 1:1 to 25:1.
  6. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more alkanediols is selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propandiol, butylene glycol and 1,2-butandiol, preferably from 1,3-propandiol and butylene glycol, most preferably butylene glycol is used as sole alkanediol.
  7. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of alkanediol(s) is selected in the range from 1 to 10 wt.-%, preferably from 1.5 to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably from 2 to 6 wt.-%, such as in the range of 2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  8. The sunscreen compositions according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is an O/W emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O/W emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate emulsifier, most preferably in the presence of potassium cetyl phosphate.
  9. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane and/ or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
  10. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of butyl dibenzoylmethane and/ or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is selected in the range from 1 to 10 wt.-%, preferably from 1.5 to 7.5 wt.-%, preferably from 2 to 6 wt.-%, more preferably in the range from 2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  11. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of dicaprylate/dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacates, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-C 12 - 13 alkyl tartrates, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, C 12-13 alkyl lactates, C 16-17 alkyl benzoates, propylheptyl caprylates, caprylic/capric triglycerides, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl cocoatesdibutyl adipate, preferably of dicaprylyl carbonate, phenethyl benzoate, C 12 -C 15 alkylbenzoate, caprylyl carbonate, capric/caprylic triglyceride, most preferably of dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyladipate and C 12 -C 15 alkylbenzoate.
  12. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more a preservative/ preservative booster selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), 1,2 decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, propanediol, propylene glycol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, preferably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin are used as sole preservative/ preservative booster.
  13. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, crosslinked acrylate/C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
  14. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, preferably of behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, most preferably stearyl alcohol.
  15. A method of reducing the soaping effect of sunscreen compositions comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, said method comprising the step of replacing ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate comprised in said sunscreen composition by diethylhexyl sebacate and optionally appreciating the effect.

Description

The present invention relates to sunscreen compositions containing bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate and one or more alkanediol with the proviso that the composition is free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Said compositions exhibit a reduced soaping effect and thus a more appealing skin feel and look. Sunscreens should be effective and safe. In this respect sunscreens contain different UVB and UVA filter. Among these UV-filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is particularly advantageous as it is a broad-spectrum UV absorber, absorbing UVB as well as UVA rays, which is highly photostablel. Overall it is currently regarded the most effective UV absorber available measured by SPF based on the maximum concentration permitted by European legislation. As solid UV-filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, however, needs to be efficiently solubilized to be incorporated into sunscreen compositions and to avoid its recrystallisation therein upon storage. One efficient solvent for bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. As this compound is also an effective UV-B filter, these two ingredients are often used together in sunscreen compositions. Sunscreens in the form of emulsions often exhibit a soaping effect, i.e. they tend to produce a whitish/ blue residue on the skin. In simple terms, soaping is the incorporation of air into an emulsion via exposure to air and agitation. When you rub lotion vigorously onto skin, for example, the thin film of tiny bubbles appears as a white film. In time, the emulsion destabilizes due to evaporation, and the foam breaks up. Even though the initial soaping effect does disappear, it is usually undesirable in lotions and creams. To reduce or even prevent said effect, consumers tend to use less sunscreen but at the same time they are less protected. The adverse effects of UV radiation on skin are well known. It is therefore important for the industry to provide solutions for such kind of issues to foster that consumers apply sufficient sunscreen for appropriate protection. For many years, formulators understood that silicones, such as dimethicone, imparted a defoaming effect. As the cosmetic market evolves toward greener choices, the use of certain silicones has come increasingly under scrutiny for the environmental consequences in both production and waste streams. Formulators faced with new demands to control soaping without the use of silicones are thus seeking for alternative solutions to reduce the unwanted sopaing effect. EP3714865 is concerned with the solubilization of organic UV-filters such as BEMT, but not with soaping of cosmetic compositions comprising BEMT, the technical problem underlying the present invention. Surprisingly, it has now been found, that the replacement of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EMC) as solvent for bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine by diethylhexyl sebacate in compositions comprising in addition one or more alkandiol surprisingly reduces the soaping effect of such cosmetic compositions, thus resulting in a more appealing skin feel and look. Thus, in a first embodiment, the present invention provides sunscreen compositions in the form of emulsions comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate and one or more alkandiol with the proviso that the compositions are free of (i.e. do not contain) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Another subject matter of the invention is directed to a method of reducing the soaping effect of sunscreen compositions comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, said method comprising the step of replacing the total amount of ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate comprised in said sunscreen composition by diethylhexyl sebacate and optionally appreciating the effect. Preferably said method comprises the step of replacing the amount of ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate comprised in said sunscreen composition by the same amount of diethylhexyl sebacate. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions are in addition free of any silicones such as dimethicone. The term 'free of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate' respectively 'free of silicone' in all embodiments of the present invention means, that no ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate respectively silicone is added to the compositions deliberately, i.e. the respective compounds are not detectable with standard analytical means such as HPLC. The term silicone is well known to a person skilled in the art and refers to organic silicone compounds such as silicone oils. Exemplary silicones commonly used in cosmetics are e.g. polysiloxanes such as dimethicone as well as cyclohexasiloxane, cylcopentasiloxane and cyclomethicone. The term 'emulsion' as used herein refers to compositions containing an oily phase and an aqueous phase such as in particular O/W, W/O, Si/W, W/Si, O/W/O, W/O/W multiple or pickering emulsio