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EP-4734911-A1 - BIPHASIC COMPOSITION WITH STABLE INTERFACE

EP4734911A1EP 4734911 A1EP4734911 A1EP 4734911A1EP-4734911-A1

Abstract

Biphasic composition with stable interface The present invention relates to a composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, characterized in that the oily phase comprises squalane, dicaprylyl ether and a mixture of linear or branched alkane having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free from surfactants and from silicones. It also relates to associated methods and cosmetic uses.

Inventors

  • SECLET, Christèle
  • LAVALEE, Jennifer

Assignees

  • L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date
20260506
Application Date
20240628

Claims (14)

  1. 1. Composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, characterized in that the oily phase comprises squalane, dicaprylyl ether and a mixture of linear or branched alkane having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free from surfactants and from silicones.
  2. 2. Composition according to claim 1 , which is a biphasic composition.
  3. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a weight ratio of between 70: 30 and 98: 2 respectively, and preferably between 75: 25 and 95: 5.
  4. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a weight ratio of approximately 90: 10, respectively.
  5. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 45% to 80% by weight of squalane with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, preferably from 55% to 70% by weight, preferably from 60% to 70% by weight.
  6. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of dicaprylyl ether with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 13% to 17%.
  7. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of mixture of linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 13% to 17%.
  8. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least water.
  9. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water at 25°C; preferably the solvent is chosen from short-chain linear or branched alkanols for example at C2-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2-pentadiol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.
  10. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably between 80% and 98% by weight.
  11. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises less than 0.5% by weight of surfactants with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1 % by weight and which comprises less than 1% by weight of silicones with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight; preferably, the biphasic composition according to the invention is totally free from surfactants and from silicones.
  12. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one active agent chosen from hydrophilic active agents and lipophilic active agents, preferably from niacinamide, plant extracts, adenosine and vitamins, their precursors or derivatives, preferably at least niacinamide.
  13. 13. Method for the care of keratin materials comprising the application of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12 on said keratin materials.
  14. 14. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, mucous membranes and/or hair.

Description

Biphasic composition with stable interface The present invention relates to a biphasic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the oily phase comprising specific oils. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition, as well as to a care method using such a composition. Compositions consisting of two separate phases, particularly an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate and are not emulsified in each other at rest, are generally referred to as “biphasic composition.” They differ from emulsions by the fact that, at rest, the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these biphasic compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter needing to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow for a homogeneous application of both phases on the skin or the keratin material to which it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate quickly from each other and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being more commonly known by the term “phase separation” or “demixing.” Relatively rapid demixing of the two phases after their use is one of the desired qualities of biphasic compositions. Indeed, achieving a rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, particularly because a poor separation of the two phases is perceived as unsightly by users and may cause the product to become “triphasic” as it is used over time. Furthermore, commercial biphasic compositions are in particular used for care. However, biphasic compositions usually have greasy sensory properties and relatively unstable interfaces after stirring (turbidities, spiral formation, etc.). Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges. It has therefore become essential to propose more sustainable compositions and/or preparation processes and/or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges. Consequently, there remains a need for novel biphasic compositions consisting of two separate, non-miscible phases that simultaneously have a light texture, non-greasy sensory properties, and good demixing qualities, while still achieving effective care. There is also a need for biphasic compositions having a clear and stable interface after stirring (i.e. no turbidity or spiral formation). Moreover, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint in particular by promoting the use of raw materials that are renewable and/or have a good wilderness quality index and/or are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. The inventors surprisingly discovered that the ternary association of squalane, dicaprylyl ether and linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, in specific proportions, coupled with an aqueous phase, makes it possible to obtain a biphasic composition that meets these needs. The compositions according to the invention have in particular a light texture, non-greasy sensory properties, good demixing qualities, a clear and stable interface after stirring, and provide effective care. More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a care composition, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, wherein the oily phase comprises squalane, dicaprylyl ether and a mixture of linear or branched alkane having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free from surfactants and from silicones. Such a composition according to the invention is a biphasic composition. The expression “biphasic composition” refers to a composition that is made of up two separate phases, one an aqueous phase and one an oily phase, which require prior stirring to form an emulsion before application. Preferably, the biphasic composition according to the invention comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a weight ratio of between 70: 30 and 98: 2 respectively, and preferably between 75: 25 and 95: 5, preferably around 90: 10, respectively. These ratio values make it possible to obtain a biphasic composition that particularly has a satisfactory visual appearance. All compositions according to this invention are cosmetic compositions. “Cosmetic” means a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and/or skin appendages. The biphasic composition according to the invention is substantially free from surfactants. It is also substantially free from silicones. A composition that is “substantially free from surfactants” means that this composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight of surfactants with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the biphasic composition acco