EP-4734918-A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYALURONIC ACID AND/OR A DERIVATIVE THEREOF, A (BI)CARBONATE, A FATTY ACID AND A DYE

EP4734918A1EP 4734918 A1EP4734918 A1EP 4734918A1EP-4734918-A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof, and mixtures thereof, at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one fatty acid and at least one dye.

Inventors

MARIO, MAUD
BRUYERE, Julie

Assignees

L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date: 20260506
Application Date: 20240627

Claims (17)

Composition comprising: a) at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof, and mixtures thereof; b) at least one (bi)carbonate; c) at least one fatty acid; d) at least one dye in which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from fatty acids ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in which the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to Claim 1, in which the compound(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof and mixtures thereof are chosen from hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and salts thereof and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts and mixtures thereof, more preferentially sodium hyaluronate.
Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.003% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.008% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (bi)carbonate(s) are chosen from alkali metal (bi)carbonates, alkaline-earth metal (bi)carbonates and ammonium (bi)carbonates, preferentially alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from Na, K, Mg and Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, preferentially Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof, even better still ammonium bicarbonate.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the (bi)carbonate(s) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) chosen from fatty acids are chosen from fatty acids including at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, even more preferentially chosen from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof, better still from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from fatty acids ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, preferentially from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant other than fatty acids, the surfactant(s) other than fatty acids preferably being chosen from nonionic surfactants, more preferentially chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, C8 to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, and including at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, plant oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, mineral oil, and mixtures thereof, better still from cetearyl alcohol, C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), mineral oil and mixtures thereof, better still cetearyl alcohol, mineral oil, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one sequestrant, preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent other than (bi)carbonates, chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of the composition as defined according to Claim 14.
Process according to Claim 15, comprising the application to the fibres of a mixture of: a) a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Multi-compartment device, preferably a two-compartment device, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Description

Composition comprising hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof, a (bi)carbonate, a fatty acid and a dye. The invention relates to a composition comprising hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof, at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one fatty acid and at least one dye. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, notably the hair, using this composition. Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, and notably the hair. Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair. In the field of dyeing hair keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, it is already known practice to dye hair keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing. There are essentially three types of process for dyeing the hair: a) “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to afford a substantial modification to the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fibre and form the dye via an oxidative condensation process; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c) temporary dyeing, which gives rise to a modification of the natural colour of the hair that remains from one shampoo wash to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been obtained. It may also be likened to a “makeup” process. It is thus known practice to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, to obtain “permanent” dyeing with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation. It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained. However, the use of these dye compositions may entail a certain number of drawbacks. Specifically, after application to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a limited range of colours. The colourings may also be insufficiently fast with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo washing or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root. Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which is capable of producing good colour build-up, intensity and chromaticity, while at the same time having low selectivity and good fastness, notably good resistance to shampoo washing, and which is capable of delivering good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage, while at the same time having good application qualities and retaining good sensory performance notably in terms of sheen, smoothness, suppleness, straightening and disentangling of keratin fibres such as the hair. These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus a composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof, and mixtures thereof; - at least one (bi)carbonate; - at least one fatty acid; - at least one dyein which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from fatty acids ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, andin which the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, notably the hair. The composition according to the invention may notably lead to chromatic, powerful, intense and sparingly selective colourings, i.e. colourings that are uniform along the length of the fibre. The composition according to the invention has improved resistance to shampoo washing and also good stability over time, notably little or no change in its viscosity during storage. The composition according to the invention has good application qualities, notably in terms of texture, ease of application, adhesion to the hair and lengthening. The composition according to the invention can also afford good cosmetic qualities, notably in terms of sheen, smoothness and suppleness, and a more