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EP-4734920-A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID OR A SALT THEREOF, A (BI)CARBONATE IN A PARTICULAR CONTENT, AN ADDITIONAL ALKALINE AGENT, A FATTY SUBSTANCE AND A DYE

EP4734920A1EP 4734920 A1EP4734920 A1EP 4734920A1EP-4734920-A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, a (bi)carbonate in a particular content, an additional alkaline agent, a fatty substance and a dye.

Inventors

  • BRUYERE, Julie
  • MATEES, Alexandra
  • MARIO, MAUD

Assignees

  • L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date
20260506
Application Date
20240627

Claims (15)

  1. Composition comprising: - at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) below, salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and/or solvates thereof: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group including from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one (bi)carbonate 2), the total content of (bi)carbonate(s) being greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one additional alkaline agent 3); - at least one fatty substance 4); and - at least one dye 5).
  2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferentially N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, more preferentially tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name).
  3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, salts thereof and/or solvates thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (bi)carbonate(s) are chosen from alkali metal (bi)carbonates, alkaline-earth metal (bi)carbonates and ammonium (bi)carbonates, preferentially alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from Na, K, Mg and Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonate and mixtures thereof, preferentially Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof, even better still ammonium bicarbonate.
  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the (bi)carbonate(s) ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1.2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.8% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the additional alkaline agent(s) are chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, plant oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty acids, waxes and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), cetearyl alcohol, waxes, solid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the fatty substance(s) ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7% to 30% by weight and preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, preferentially from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional surfactant, the additional surfactant(s) preferably being chosen from nonionic surfactants, more preferentially chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, C8 to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, and including at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain.
  11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent.
  12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  13. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of the composition as defined according to Claim 12.
  14. Process according to Claim 13, comprising the application to the fibres of a mixture of: a) a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  15. Multi-compartment device, preferably a two-compartment device, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID OR A SALT THEREOF, A (BI)CARBONATE IN A PARTICULAR CONTENT, AN ADDITIONAL ALKALINE AGENT, A FATTY SUBSTANCE AND A DYE The invention relates to a composition comprising a particular carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, at least one (bi)carbonate in a particular content, at least one additional alkaline agent, at least one fatty substance and at least one dye. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, notably the hair, using this composition. Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, and notably the hair. Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair. In the field of dyeing hair keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, it is already known practice to dye hair keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing. There are essentially three types of process for dyeing the hair: a) “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to afford a substantial modification to the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fibre and form the dye via an oxidative condensation process; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c) temporary dyeing, which gives rise to a modification of the natural colour of the hair that remains from one shampoo wash to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been obtained. It may also be likened to a “makeup” process. It is thus known practice to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, to obtain “permanent” dyeing with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation. It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained. However, the use of these dye compositions may entail a certain number of drawbacks. Specifically, after application to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a limited range of colours. The colourings may also be insufficiently fast with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo washing or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root. Consumers are moreover in search of dyeing products that are more environmentally friendly, notably based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good application qualities, are easy to use and give good dyeing properties. The formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met. Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which is more environmentally friendly and which is capable of producing good colour build-up, intensity and chromaticity, while at the same time having low selectivity and good fastness, notably good resistance to shampoo washing, and which is capable of delivering good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage, while at the same time having good application qualities and retaining good sensory performance notably in terms of sheen, smoothness, suppleness, straightening and disentangling of keratin fibres such as the hair. These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus a composition comprising: 1) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) below, salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and/or solvates thereof: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 repre