Search

EP-4734938-A1 - PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR FATTY ACID, AT LEAST ONE OXYGENATED TERPENE COMPOUND AND AT LEAST ONE OLIGO/POLY-ESTER

EP4734938A1EP 4734938 A1EP4734938 A1EP 4734938A1EP-4734938-A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres using a composition comprising at least one particular fatty acid, at least one oxygenated terpene compound and at least one oligo/poly-ester.

Inventors

  • MAKHLOUF, FATIMA
  • SABELLE, Stéphane

Assignees

  • L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date
20260506
Application Date
20240625

Claims (20)

  1. Process for treating keratin fibres, comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising: a) one or more compounds A chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof: in which formula (I): ▪ R 1 represents: - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NR a -, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, –NR a -(CO)– or –(CO)-NR a –; or - a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or R b -(CO)-; ▪ R a represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ) or carboxyl (-COOH); ▪ R b represents a (C 2 -C 10 )alkyl group; and b) one or more compounds B chosen from oxygenated terpene compounds, preferably chosen from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isoborneol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, borneol, eucalyptol, cubebol, farnesol, patchoulol, viridiflorol, cafestol, ferruginol, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; and c) one or more compounds E chosen from oligoesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
  2. Process according to the preceding claim, in which at least one of the compounds A, preferably all of the compounds A, are present in composition (C) in non-salified form.
  3. Process according to either of the preceding claims, in which the mole ratio of the total amount of compounds A to the total amount of compounds B present in composition (C) is less than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 0.25.
  4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH 2 ), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, –NR a –, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, –NR a -(CO)– or –(CO)-NR a –, R a being as defined in Claim 1, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even more preferentially a (C 6 -C 20 )alkyl group, most preferentially a (C 6 -C 12 )alkyl group.
  5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) A are chosen from the following compounds 1 to 39, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: preferably chosen from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially chosen from compounds 14, 16 or 17, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially chosen from compounds 16 or 17, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
  6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) B are chosen from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isoborneol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, borneol, eucalyptol, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, preferably from menthol, thymol, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from menthol, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.
  7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which: - compound A is capric acid and compound B is menthol, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferentially equal to 1/2; or - compound A is lauric acid and compound B is menthol, the mole ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferentially equal to 1/2; or - compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferentially equal to 1/2 or 1, even more preferentially equal to 1; preferably: - compound A is capric acid and compound B is menthol, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferentially equal to 1/2; or - compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferentially equal to 1/2 or 1, even more preferentially equal to 1; preferably, compound A is caprylic acid and compound B is menthol, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of menthol in composition (C) preferably being less than or equal to 1, more preferentially equal to 1/2 or 1, even more preferentially equal to 1.
  8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises: - a total content of compounds A ranging from 0.01% to 99%, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 98% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C); and/or - a total content of compounds B ranging from 0.01% to 99% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 98% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 2.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
  9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds A and B ranging from 0.02% to 99.9% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 99% by weight, most preferentially ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, better still ranging from 3% to 99% by weight, and even better still ranging from 4% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
  10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from: - reaction of one or more polyols and one or more compounds chosen from carboxylic acids F comprising one or more carboxyl groups, carboxylic acid anhydrides and mixtures thereof; and/or - polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and/or - ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.
  11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from: - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more monoacids F, notably a plant oil notably chosen from triglycerides; and/or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F; and/or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F and one or more monoacids F; and/or - the reaction of one or more polyols and one or more diacids F and one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides; and/or - polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and/or - ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones; it being understood that: ▪ the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from: - diols and triols, such as propanediols, butanediols such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediols, dilinoleic dimer alcohols, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecanedimethanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-(dihydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; - tetraols such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol or diglycerol; - pentols such as xylitol; - hexols such as sorbitol, mannitol or dipentaerythritol; - polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6 or polyglycerol-10; and - and mixtures thereof; and/or ▪ the monoacid(s) F are preferably chosen from monocarboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising a total number of carbon atoms (including carboxyl group carbon atoms) of more than 7, preferably more than 8, more preferentially from 8 to 30, the monoacid(s) F being even more preferentially chosen from capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, salts thereof with organic or mineral bases, isomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and/or ▪ the diacid(s) F are preferably chosen from dilinoleic acid, adipic acid, terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, sebacic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof with organic or mineral bases, isomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and/or ▪ the hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from hydroxystearic acids, hydroxybutyric acids, hydroxypentanoic acids, hydroxyhexanoic acids, lactic acid, salts thereof with organic or mineral bases, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; and/or ▪ the lactone(s) are preferably chosen from ε-caprolactone, gluconolactones, glucarolactones, butyrolactones, valerolactones, octalactones, galactonolactones, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the lactone is ε-caprolactone; the compound(s) E preferably being chosen from the polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic Acid; - Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer; - 3-Hydroxybutyrate/3-Hydroxyhexanoate Copolymer; - Polyhydroxybutyrate; - Adipic Acid/Diglycol Crosspolymer; - Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer; - Polyethylene Terephthalate; - Polybutylene Terephthalate; - Polylactic Acid; - Polycaprolactone; - Dilinoleic Acid Propanediol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Copolymer; - Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Adipate; - Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate; - Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid Copolymer; - 1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/HDI Copolymer; - Adipic Acid/1,4-Butanediol/Terephthalate Copolymer; - Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer; - Adipic Acid/Fumaric Acid/Phthalic Acid/Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer; and - mixtures thereof; the compound(s) E more preferentially being chosen from the polymers having the following INCI names: - Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic acid; and - mixtures thereof.
  12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
  13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass ratio of the total amount of compounds A and B to the total amount of compounds E in composition (C) is from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200.
  14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total content of silicones of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of silicones.
  15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.
  16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.
  17. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.
  18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is anhydrous.
  19. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) is liquid.
  20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition (C) comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C 2 -C 4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.

Description

PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR FATTY ACID, AT LEAST ONE OXYGENATED TERPENE COMPOUND AND AT LEAST ONE OLIGO/POLY-ESTER TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres using a composition comprising at least one particular fatty acid, at least one oxygenated terpene compound and at least one oligo/poly-ester. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The hair is damaged and weakened by external atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving, relaxing and repeated washing. The hair thus becomes damaged and may in the long run become dry, coarse, brittle, dull, split and/or soft or else sensitive to humidity, making the hair unmanageable, often with frizziness, and/or difficult to style in a humid environment, in particular in a very humid environment. Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to hair treatments which make use of compositions intended for conditioning the hair appropriately by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably a soft feel (the hair is no longer coarse), good disentangling properties leading to easy combing, and good manageability of the hair which is thus easy to shape. However, these hair treatments, which are often based on silicone-based starting materials, may give the hair a greasy, heavy feel that is not always pleasant for the user. Moreover, these hair treatments have little or no effect on controlling the volume of keratin fibres and/or maintaining the hairstyle and/or hair discipline in a humid or very humid environment. Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met notably by reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. There is thus a real need to develop a hair treatment process that can remedy these drawbacks and that is notably capable of preserving or even improving the quality of the fibre, notably the softness, disentangling, smoothness, discipline and/or sheen, and of durably limiting the formation of frizziness and/or the increase in volume of the head of hair in a humid environment so as to facilitate styling of the hair in a humid environment. Such a process must ideally not use any silicone starting materials. The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that all or some of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Process for treating keratin fibres Compounds A Compounds B Compounds E Polyols Polyacids F Monoacids F Carboxylic acid anhydrides Hydroxy acids Lactones Particular embodiments Other features of composition (C) Composition (C) Uses Examples Process for preparing compositions C1 to C3 According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising:a) one or more compounds A chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof: in which formula (I):▪ R1 represents:- a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, –NRa-(CO)– or –(CO)-NRa–; or- a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb-(CO)-;▪ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH);▪ Rb represents a (C2-C10)alkyl group; andb) one or more compounds B chosen from oxygenated terpene compounds, preferably chosen from menthol, menthone, terpineol, isoborneol, camphor, nerol, citronellal, citronellol, myrcenol, linalool, geraniol, vitamin A, carvone, eugenol, thymol, fenchone, borneol, eucalyptol, cubebol, farnesol, patchoulol, viridiflorol, cafestol, ferruginol, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; andc) one or more compounds E chosen from oligoesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. According to a second aspect, a s