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EP-4734949-A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING DIFFERENT EXTRACTS

EP4734949A1EP 4734949 A1EP4734949 A1EP 4734949A1EP-4734949-A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - at least one Withania somnifera extract; - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and - at least one Lactobacillus extract. It also relates to uses and processes using this composition.

Inventors

  • Cheilian, Stéphanie
  • GUENICHE, AUDREY
  • LEVOY, Suzy
  • ABDAYEM, Rawad
  • ROUMIGUIERE, Romain

Assignees

  • L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date
20260506
Application Date
20240628

Claims (17)

  1. 1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - at least one Withania somnifera extract; - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and - at least one Lactobacillus extract.
  2. 2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the Withania somnifera extract is an extract of a part of the plant chosen in the group comprising the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem, preferably the Withania somnifera extract is a root extract, advantageously dried and ground.
  3. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Withania somnifera extract is obtained with an extraction process comprising a step of solid/liquid extraction of at least a part of the plant, followed by a second step of solid/liquid separation and finally a third step of recovering the liquid phase, the solvent used by this process being a mixture of fructose, glycerin and optionally water.
  4. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Withania somnifera is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight.
  5. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is an extract of a part of the plant chosen from the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem, preferably, the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is a fruit extract.
  6. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is obtained with a process for cold extraction of at least a part of the plant, in particular under pressure.
  7. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.01% and 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.02% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 1 % by weight.
  8. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Lactobacillus extract is a Lactobacillus plantarum (L. Plantarum)) extract, preferably the Lactobacillus extract is an L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract, preferably the Lactobacillus extract is formulated with a prebiotic, preferably a maltodextrin.
  9. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Lactobacillus extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001 % and 1% with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.6% by weight.
  10. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which also comprises at least one C-glycoside according to the following general formula (I): [Chem 1] X— R __/ ( ..|.) wherein: - R represents a C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, saturated linear alkyl radical, optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, where R"2 is a saturated C1 -C4 alkyl radical; - X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- radical and preferably a -CH(OH)- group; - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide including up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of L and/or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide optionally being substituted by an obligatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and - the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric type bond, which may be a or p, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical and geometric isomers thereof.
  11. 11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the C-glycoside is chosen from: - C-p-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane- 2-one, - C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, - 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, - 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, - 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, - 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, - 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, - 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, - 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, - 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, - 1 -(C-p-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, - 1 -(C-a-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, - 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, - 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane - 1 -(C-p-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one, - 1 -(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one - 1 -(C-p-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one, - 1 -(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one, - C-p-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, - C-a-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one - C-p-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, - C-a-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, isomers thereof or mixtures thereof, preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, preferably the C-glycoside is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.
  12. 12. Composition according to claim 10 or 1 1 , wherein the C-glycoside is present in the composition at a content from 1 % to 21% by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 9% by weight of active substance, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight of active substance.
  13. 13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably the ascorbic acid derivative is chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.
  14. 14. Composition according to claim 13, wherein ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition at a content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of the derivatives thereof with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of active substance, and more particularly from 1 .5% to 5% by weight of active substance.
  15. 15. Use of such a composition according to one of the preceding claims for reinforcing the barrier function and/or enhancing skin hydration.
  16. 16. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 14 for reinforcing skin firmness.
  17. 17. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratin materials of at least one composition according to one of claims 1 to 14.

Description

TITLE: Composition comprising different extracts The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - at least one Withania somnifera extract; - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and - at least one Lactobacillus extract. The skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly. The human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment (the epidermis) and a deep compartment (the dermis). The epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming a germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedric cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called the stratum granulosum composed of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains and finally, a set of upper layers called corneal layers (or stratum corneum), composed of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes. Corneocytes are anucleate cells composed principally of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. There is permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation. However, an imbalance between the production of cells in the base layer and the desquamation rate can lead to the formation of scales on the skin surface. Similarly, for various reasons, a deficit of terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum can lead to the formation of large, thick clumps of cells, visible to the naked eye and called "dander", or in other situations, to thinning of the stratum corneum. This can give rise to fragility of the barrier properties of the epidermis, chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum and/or a loss of mechanical elasticity or firmness of the skin. Among examples of factors conducive to this reduction in the surface quality of the skin, mention may be made of stress, the winter period, excess sebum, or a lack of hydration. Thus, fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external attacks such as irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic imbalances (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal attacks of the psychological stress type. Hydrating agents conventionally used such as humectants, hydrating polymers or fatty bodies such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin. These active agents can increase the mechanical suppleness of the stratum corneum, increase its state of hydration and/or improve the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a surface film on the skin. In general, these effects are not remanent in time and only last for a few hours. Furthermore, after the skin has been cleaned, these active agents are eliminated and the effect of increased mechanical suppleness of the skin, improved skin texture or optical properties of the skin disappear. Moreover, during aging, the epidermis undergoes numerous modifications which result with age in an alteration of the microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and a reduction in skin firmness. Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., the design and development of which account for environmental concerns, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It has therefore become essential to provide more sustainable compositions and/or preparation processes and/or ingredients thus making it possible to address these environmental concerns. There is therefore a need for active agents allowing the skin to maintain its barrier function role. There is furthermore a need for active agents enhancing the surface condition of the skin, which furthermore enhance firmness properties. Maintaining or restoring a cornified envelope having satisfactory maturation is essential for preserving a good quality barrier function providing protection against external attacks and long-term hydration of the skin, in particular of the epidermis. Moreover, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint in particular by promoting the use of raw materials that are renewable and/or have a good wilderness quality index and/or are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. The present invention