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EP-4739161-A1 - FLEXIBLE SET STRAP, IN PARTICULAR FOR A WRISTWATCH, AND CORRESPONDING PRODUCTION METHOD

EP4739161A1EP 4739161 A1EP4739161 A1EP 4739161A1EP-4739161-A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a flexible strap (1) comprising, in the direction of its thickness: - first and second outer layers (2, 4) rigidly attached to one another; - an intermediate layer (6) arranged between the outer layers (2, 4) and having a tensile strength greater than those of the outer layers (2, 4) in the longitudinal direction of the strap (1), the strap comprising a mounting member (16) for mounting a decorative element (12) on the strap (1), rigidly attached to the intermediate layer (6), the second outer layer (4) being provided with a window (14) arranged opposite the mounting member (16) to accommodate, along at least one portion of the thickness of the second outer layer (4), a decorative element (12) that is to be supported by the mounting member (16).

Inventors

  • LE LOARER, THIBAUT

Assignees

  • Manufacture d'Horlogerie Audemars Piguet SA

Dates

Publication Date
20260513
Application Date
20240614

Claims (16)

  1. 1. Bracelet (1) comprising at least one portion having the general shape of an elongated band comprising, depending on its thickness: - first and second external layers (2, 4), flexible, integral with one another, and each of which has a substantially continuous external surface, - a flexible intermediate layer (6) arranged between said first and second external layers (2, 4) and having a tensile strength greater than that of said first and second external layers (2, 4) in the longitudinal direction of the bracelet (1), characterized in that it comprises at least one mounting member (16) of a decorative element (12) on the bracelet (1), integral with said intermediate layer (6) while being arranged at least partially in the thickness of said intermediate layer, and in that said second external layer (4) is provided with at least one through hole arranged opposite said at least one mounting member (16) to define a window (14) intended to house, along at least part of the thickness of said second external layer (4), a decorative element (12) which would be carried by said at least one mounting member (16).
  2. 2. Bracelet (1) according to claim 1, characterized in that said intermediate layer (6) comprises a metal mesh.
  3. 3. Bracelet (1) according to claim 2, characterized in that said metal mesh comprises at least one opening having at least one peripheral retaining surface capable of cooperating with a decorative element (12) to directly define said at least one mounting member (16).
  4. 4. Bracelet (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one mounting member (16) is made in one piece with said intermediate layer (6).
  5. 5. Bracelet (1) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said at least one mounting member (16) is attached to said intermediate layer (6), preferably by gluing, welding, crimping or riveting.
  6. 6. Bracelet (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said intermediate layer (6) has a thickness of between 0.5 and 1.5 times the thickness of said first external layer (2), and in that the sum of the thicknesses of said first and second external layers (2, 4) and the thickness of said intermediate layer (6) is between 1 mm and 5 mm.
  7. 7. Bracelet (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional mounting member (16), intended to carry an additional decorative element (12) and associated with an additional window (14) of said second external layer (4).
  8. 8. Bracelet (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one decorative element (12), preferably a precious or semi-precious stone, mounted on a mounting member (16) and housed in a corresponding window (14) of said second external layer (4), so as to be visible from the side of the external surface of said second external layer (4).
  9. 9. Bracelet (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one connecting member intended to cooperate with an attachment member of a watch case.
  10. 10. Wristwatch comprising a case comprising at least one attachment member cooperating with a bracelet (1) according to one of claims 1 to 9 so as to make the latter integral with said case.
  11. 11. A method of manufacturing a flexible bracelet (1), comprising at least one portion having the general shape of an elongated strip, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: a) providing a strip of a first flexible material having a high tensile strength, shaped and sized so as to define an intermediate layer (6) intended to be inserted between first and second external layers (2, 4) of the bracelet (1) to be manufactured, said intermediate layer (6) being provided with at least one mounting member (16) carrying or intended to carry a decorative element (12) and arranged at least partially in the thickness of said intermediate layer (6), b) coating said intermediate layer (6) with first and second external layers (2, 4), each being made of a flexible material having a tensile strength lower than that of said intermediate layer (6) in the longitudinal direction of the bracelet (1) to be manufactured, said second external layer (4) comprising at least one window (14) arranged opposite said at least one mounting member (16).
  12. 12. Method according to claim 11, characterized in that said intermediate layer (6) comprises a metal mesh, preferably produced by an additive manufacturing process.
  13. 13. Method according to claim 12, characterized in that said metal mesh is manufactured so as to comprise at least one opening having at least one peripheral retaining surface capable of cooperating with a decorative element (12), and directly defining said at least one mounting member (16).
  14. 14. Method according to one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that said at least one mounting member (16) is made in one piece with said intermediate layer (6).
  15. 15. Method according to one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that at least said second external layer (4) is made of at least one material chosen from the group comprising: textiles, flexible plastics, elastomers, leathers based on plant materials, animal leathers, and synthetic leathers, and in that said first and second external layers (2, 4) are assembled to each other after their positioning on either side of said intermediate layer (6), said second external layer (4) being arranged against the face of said intermediate layer (6) carrying said at least one mounting member (16).
  16. 16. Method according to one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that said first and second external layers (2, 4) are made of an elastomer, natural or synthetic, by implementing an overmolding operation of said intermediate layer (6), in a mold comprising a space for each window (14) to be produced.

Description

Description FLEXIBLE SET BRACELET, PARTICULARLY FOR A WRISTWATCH, AND CORRESPONDING MANUFACTURING METHOD Technical field [0001] The present invention relates to a bracelet comprising at least one portion having the general shape of an elongated strip comprising, depending on its thickness: - first and second external layers, flexible, integral with one another, and each of which has a substantially continuous external surface, - a flexible intermediate layer, arranged between the first and second external layers and having a tensile strength greater than that of the first and second external layers in the longitudinal direction of the bracelet. [0002] The present invention also relates to a wristwatch comprising such a bracelet, as well as a method of manufacturing such a bracelet. State of the art [0003] Bracelets of this type have been known for a long time in the prior art, particularly in connection with wristwatches. [0004] US Patent 4,573,221 discloses an example of the construction of a bracelet for a wristwatch meeting the above characteristics. More specifically, this document provides for the production of a bracelet of this type comprising a rigid attachment member at at least one of its ends. The bracelet comprises lower and upper external layers, typically made of leather or imitation leather and made integral with each other by gluing, welding, or sewing. This bracelet also comprises an intermediate layer intended to make the connection between the rigid attachment member and the bracelet more robust. [0005] The use of an interlayer is common in bracelets of this type, mainly to provide reinforcement of the bracelet, the flexible materials generally used for the external layers typically having the priority objective of offering an attractive aesthetic appearance, and/or good comfort for what concerns more particularly the lower layer intended to be in contact with the wearer's wrist. Also, these materials often have a tensile strength, particularly in the longitudinal direction of the bracelet, which proves to be insufficient, which explains the presence of the interlayer, typically having a tensile strength greater than that of the external layers. [0006] Flexible bracelets also have a limited lifespan, generally speaking, depending on the conditions to which they are subjected to wear, in particular depending on their possible exposure to water, sometimes salty, to sweat or other materials likely to accelerate their wear, for example by abrasion, such as sand or hard materials, such as rock. Considering the case of a flexible bracelet for a wristwatch, it will be noted that, most of the time, the simple assembly of the bracelet to a clasp, to allow a user to wear the wristwatch on his wrist, already generates a deformation of the bracelet which can lead to a structural weakness in the region concerned over time. [0007] It is known that metal or ceramic bracelets offer greater robustness than flexible bracelets, and therefore a quasi-infinite service life. The high wear resistance of these bracelets is notably due to the materials used, essentially metallic, whose rigidity typically requires the bracelets to be made by assembling rigid links. [0008] Generally speaking, the long life of metal bracelets, and sometimes also the noble nature of certain metals used such as gold or platinum, justify that they can serve as a priority base for integrating decorative elements, more particularly in the case of decorative elements presenting a high cost such as precious stones in particular. Furthermore, it is appropriate to ensure good holding of a precious stone, when it is integrated into a support of any kind, in order to prevent it from becoming detached and lost at the slightest contact with an obstacle. Thus, precious stones are typically set, using various known techniques, in a way that guarantees this essential good holding. [0009] The idea of producing a flexible bracelet for a wristwatch, comprising decorative elements such as precious stones, was presented with a minimum of technical details in patent application EP 3427607 A1. This document describes the integration of a rigid plate between the lower and upper outer layers of a bracelet, and the fixing of supports for precious stones on the rigid plate, for example by welding. The upper outer layer of the bracelet is provided with holes positioned opposite the supports to make the precious stones visible on the top of the bracelet. This application also provides for the possibility of adding one or more intermediate reinforcing layers between the two outer layers to reinforce the multilayer structure of the corresponding bracelet. [0010] The teaching of this document is rather schematic and the proposed assembly clearly results in a relatively significant thickness of the bracelet finally obtained, due to the multiplication of the layers necessary for the bracelet to meet both the required aesthetic criteria, that is to say that it carr