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EP-4739279-A1 - RED ALGAE BIOMASS EXTRACT, AND COSMETIC USE THEREOF FOR ELIMINATING SKIN IMPERFECTIONS

EP4739279A1EP 4739279 A1EP4739279 A1EP 4739279A1EP-4739279-A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a photosensitizing polar biomass extract extracted from phycocyanin-producing organisms, in particular unicellular red algae (URA) or cyanobacteria, and to the cosmetic use thereof for preventing and/or eliminating skin imperfections, i.e. for improving the look of the skin.

Inventors

  • CAGNAC, Olivier
  • ATHANE, Axel
  • RAFFIN, Colleen

Assignees

  • Fermentalg

Dates

Publication Date
20260513
Application Date
20240705

Claims (15)

  1. 1. Photosensitizing polar extract of biomass extracted from phycocyanin-producing organisms, particularly unicellular red algae (URA) or Cyanobacteria.
  2. 2. Photosensitizing polar extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the biomass is an ARU biomass and in that the ARUs are chosen from the Galdieriaceae or Cyanidiaceae families, more preferably from the Galdieria, Cyanidioschyzon or Cyanidium genera, even more preferably Galdieria.
  3. 3. Photosensitizing polar extract according to claim 2, characterized in that the ARUs are of the species Galdieria sulphuraria.
  4. 4. Photosensitizing polar extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is a solution comprising a polar organic solvent, preferably a protic polar organic solvent chosen from alcohols, in particular methanol, ethanol and isopropanol, volatile organic acids, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, primary or secondary amines and PEGs (polyethylene glycol) and their mixtures.
  5. 5. Photosensitizing polar extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises up to 95%, preferably from 90% to 65%, even more preferably from 80% to 90% of lipids by weight relative to the total dry mass of the extract.
  6. 6. Photosensitizing polar extract according to claim 5, characterized in that said lipids comprise monogalactosyldiglycerides, digalactosyldiglycerides, phosphatidylcholines and ceramides.
  7. 7. Photosensitizing polar extract according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 350 mg/g to 0.5 mg/g of pheophorbides-a and its derivatives by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, preferably from 175 mg/g to 1 mg/g and more preferably from 85 mg/g to 5 mg/g.
  8. 8. A method for preparing a photosensitizing polar extract comprising culturing a biomass of phycocyanin-producing organisms, in particular unicellular red algae (URA) or cyanobacteria, then the steps of: a) harvesting the biomass by separating the culture medium to obtain a raw biomass; b) optionally, cell lysis of the raw biomass from step (a) to obtain a lysed biomass; c) optionally, dilution of the lysed biomass from step (b) to obtain a solubilized lysed biomass; and d) recovery of the insolubles suspended in the lysed biomass from step (b) or the solubilized biomass from step (c) to obtain an extracted biomass, e) extraction by contacting the extracted biomass obtained in step d) with a polar solvent then recovery of the aqueous fraction by separation of the insolubles suspended to obtain the photosensitizing polar crude extract.
  9. 9. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that the polar organic solvent is a practical polar organic solvent chosen from alcohols, in particular methanol, ethanol and isopropanol, volatile organic acids, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, primary or secondary amines and PEGs (polyethylene glycol) and their mixtures.
  10. 10. Method according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that it further comprises a step of heating the biomass before or during the extraction step e), that is to say, at any one of steps a), b), c), d) or e).
  11. 1 1. Photosensitizing polar extract according to one of claims 1 to 7 capable of being obtained by the process according to one of claims 8 to 10.
  12. 12. Topical composition characterized in that it comprises a photosensitizing polar extract according to one of claims 1 to 7 or 11 and a topically acceptable carrier.
  13. 13. Photosensitizing polar extract according to one of claims 1 to 7 or 11 or topical composition according to claim 12 for its use in the prevention and/or treatment of acne.
  14. 14. Photosensitizing polar extract according to one of claims 1 to 7 or 11 or topical composition according to claim 12 for its use in the prevention and/or elimination of skin imperfections.
  15. 15. Photosensitizing polar extract for its use or topical composition for its use according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that said extract or said composition is applied to a skin surface to be treated of a subject, followed by exposure of said surface to a light source.

Description

RED ALGAE BIOMASS EXTRACT AND ITS COSMETIC USE TO ELIMINATE SKIN IMPERFECTIONS FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a photosensitizing polar extract of biomass extracted from phycocyanin-producing organisms, in particular unicellular red algae (URA) or Cyanobacteria, and its cosmetic use for preventing and/or eliminating skin imperfections, i.e. improving the appearance of the skin. STATE OF THE ART Acne is associated with hypersecretion of sebum by the sebaceous glands which leads to the obstruction of the pores of the skin. The pathogenesis of acne is multifactorial. The lesions caused include comedones, papules, pustules and even nodules for the most severe forms. Acne lesions can be complicated by inflammation, resulting from abnormal bacterial proliferation in the sebum which may be associated in particular with Cutibacterium acnes, Corynebacterium xerosis, Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus pyogenes, Streptococcus agalactiae or Acarus folliculorum. During puberty, acne begins when the sebaceous glands mature due to hormonal stimulation by androgens. In adults, acne is the result of stimulation of the sebaceous glands with, in parallel, poor secretion of sebum due to makeup or an increase in the synthesis of the adrenal cortex hormone due to stress. Various acne treatments are available, including Photodynamic Therapy (PDT). This therapy involves exposing the patient to light with a photosensitizer, which results in the production of singlet oxygen and other reactive oxygen species that kill nearby microorganisms. In such a PDT procedure for acne treatment, the photosensitizer is applied topically to the skin surface to be treated. The skin surface is then exposed to an illumination source such as a laser or pulsed light to release reactive oxygen species. The presence of singlet oxygen then causes the death of the bacteria responsible for acne and localized desquamation of the skin, freeing the pores. obstructed. Examples of acne treatment by photodynamic therapies are described in particular in European patents EP 1 755 676, EP 2 152 259, EP 3 082 788 or even application EP 3 558 374. It is important that the photosensitizer preserves skin cells as much as possible and does not increase the inflammation resulting from acne. A major drawback of photodynamic therapy is the occurrence of side effects, particularly at the treated surface. These side effects include erythema, swelling, edema, burning, itching, severe peeling, hyperpigmentation, irritation and/or hypersensitivity. There is therefore a real need to provide new substances which would limit the occurrence of undesirable effects. Furthermore, the use of microalgae extracts in phototherapy for the treatment of acne has already been reported, but the process for preparing such an extract presents technical constraints such as the need to use an inert atmosphere to avoid the degradation of the active molecules and a long maceration step (for example, WO2021/209441 which shows the use of a polar extract of Skeletonema). There is therefore a real need to develop new substances that are easier and less expensive to produce, and whose manufacturing process reduces the environmental impact. To meet the needs of the prior art, the inventors have demonstrated that a polar extract of biomass from phycocyanin-producing organisms, in particular unicellular red algae (URA) or Cyanobacteria, can be used for the prevention and/or elimination of skin imperfections in a subject, i.e. improving the appearance of the skin. PRESENTATION OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a photosensitizing polar extract of biomass of phycocyanin-producing organisms, in particular unicellular red algae (URA) or Cyanobacteria. Advantageously, the biomass is an ARU biomass and in that the ARUs are chosen from the Galdieriaceae or Cyanidiaceae families, more preferably from the Galdieria, Cyanidioschyzon or Cyanidium genera, even more preferably Galdieria. Advantageously, the ARUs are of the species Galdieria sulphuraria. Advantageously, the photosensitizing polar extract is a solution comprising a polar organic solvent, preferably a protic polar organic solvent chosen from alcohols, in particular methanol, ethanol and isopropanol, volatile organic acids, in particular formic acid, acetic acid, primary or secondary amines and PEGs (polyethylene glycol) and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the photosensitizing polar extract comprises up to 95%, preferably from 90% to 65%, even more preferably from 80% to 90% of lipids by weight relative to the total dry mass of the extract. Advantageously, said lipids comprise monogalactosyldiglycerides, digalactosyldiglycerides, phosphatidylcholines and ceramides. Advantageously, the photosensitizing polar extract comprises from 350 mg/g to 0.5 mg/g of pheophorbides-a and its derivatives by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, preferably from 175 mg/g to 1 mg/g and more prefera