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JP-2026514298-A - Compositions based on chitosan and specific compounds

JP2026514298AJP 2026514298 AJP2026514298 AJP 2026514298AJP-2026514298-A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) natural chitosan in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and this amount strictly less than 15% by mass, and b) at least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

Inventors

  • ダニエル・ル・ヴェルジュ
  • ベルナデット・ダヴィド
  • クリストフ・クシナ

Assignees

  • ロレアル

Dates

Publication Date
20260508
Application Date
20240418
Priority Date
20230418

Claims (20)

  1. Cosmetic compositions, particularly for the skin and/or lips, especially for cosmetic and/or care of the skin, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and this amount strictly less than 15% by mass, b) A cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.
  2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and preferably the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.
  3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the degree of acetylation of the natural chitosan is 80% or less, preferably 70% or less, preferably 60% or less, preferably 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, and preferably 15% or less.
  4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the natural chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source preferably derived from the mycelium of ascomycetes, particularly Aspergillus oryzae, and/or basidiomycetes, particularly shiitake and/or button mushrooms, and preferably the fungus is Aspergillus oryzae.
  5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein natural chitosan is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 7% by mass, and preferably 0.25% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
  6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one compound selected from pigment colorants and fillers, preferably comprising at least one compound selected from pigment colorants, preferably comprising at least one pigment colorant selected from inorganic pigments, pearlescent agents, and organic pigments.
  7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the pigment coloring substance is an inorganic pigment selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, a pearlescent agent, and a monochrome pigment, and/or the filler is selected from cellulose particles, silica, starch, kaolin, clay, nylon and mixtures thereof.
  8. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the pigment coloring substance is an organic pigment selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.
  9. The composition according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the pigment coloring substance is selected from inorganic pigments, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  10. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein the pigment coloring substance is present in an amount of 1% to 70% by mass, preferably 1% to 60% by mass, preferably 1% to 50% by mass, preferably 3% to 45% by mass, preferably 4% to 30% by mass, preferably 5% to 20% by mass, and preferably 6% to 15% by mass, based on the mass of the composition.
  11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the compound selected from anionic surfactants is a carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from citrates, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids, lactic acid, and/or salts thereof.
  12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the carboxylate anionic surfactant is selected from fatty acids and/or salts thereof, specifically from stearic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, linolenic acid, caprylic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and isostearic acid.
  13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the anionic surfactant is an N-acylamino acid containing an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group, and preferably the acyl group is a stearoyl group.
  14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the anionic surfactant is disodium stearoyl glutamate.
  15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, and alkylamide sulfosuccinate, and preferably is alkyl sulfosuccinate.
  16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein an anionic surfactant selected from citrates, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids, lactic acid, and/or salts thereof is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.45% to 2% by mass, and even more preferably 0.75% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
  17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising: a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprising at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass of water based on the total mass of the composition; preferably 5% to 95% by mass, more preferably 10% to 85%, even more preferably 20% to 80%, even more preferably 25% to 70%, even more preferably 28% to 60%, and even more preferably 30% to 50% of water based on the total mass of the composition; and optionally comprising at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C, selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.
  18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the mass ratio of chitosan to the anionic surfactant (i.e., the mass ratio of chitosan to anionic surfactant) is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.2 and 10, more preferably between 0.3 and 5, and even more preferably between 0.5 and 3.
  19. Preferably comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aloylithic acid, ribonic acid, tartaric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, as described in any one of claims 1 to 18.
  20. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, which is substantially free of (meth)acrylic polymer and/or silicone; preferably contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass of (meth)acrylic polymer based on the total mass of the composition, and preferably is completely free of (meth)acrylic polymer; preferably contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass of silicone based on the total mass of the composition, and preferably is completely free of silicone.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and this amount strictly less than 15% by mass, b) The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for cosmeticizing and/or caring for skin and/or keratinous appendages, comprising applying a composition according to the present invention to skin and/or keratinous appendages. For many cosmetic compositions, the durability of the film that adheres after application to keratinous materials is desirable. Examples include lipstick and nail polish. To achieve such results, special raw materials, particularly film-forming agents, can be combined. However, the presence of such agents to increase the durability of the film on keratinous materials can lead to compositions that dry out. Furthermore, commonly used film-forming agents are typically petrochemical-like silicones or acrylic polymers. In other respects, the goal is often to obtain a coating composition. Chitosan-based systems demonstrate that combinations of chitosan and pigments can produce films resistant to both drying and oily friction. Nevertheless, the high susceptibility of these deposits to water remains a major challenge for chitosan-based technologies. Therefore, compounders are seeking raw materials and/or systems that will enable them to obtain fluid (i.e., flowable) chitosan-based compositions whose deposits are coating, homogeneous, durable, and more water-resistant. Furthermore, environmentally conscious cosmetics—that is, cosmetic formulations whose design and development take environmental issues into consideration—are becoming a major concern in helping to address global challenges. Therefore, in order to address these environmental challenges, it is essential to present more sustainable compositions, and/or preparation methods, and/or components. In this context, it is particularly important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and/or raw materials with a good naturalness index and/or naturally derived materials, more specifically plant-derived raw materials, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. International patent application WO03068824French Patent No. 2679771EP1184426 Van de Hulst, H.C. "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. Preparation of compositions according to the present invention and comparison with comparative compositions Compositions B to J and comparative composition A according to the present invention were prepared by mixing the components in Table 1. During the mixing process, the mixture was heated to 60°C to achieve uniformity. Protocol for coating the composition into a film The product is coated using an Elcometer 4340 applicator with adjustable application speed and length. The applicator is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the support onto which the product is coated. A contrast chart with a black background and a matte white background is used (1 Bico chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The coating thickness can be adjusted by using a square spreader positioned on the support, allowing for flat coating when the platform is switched on. Each section of the spreader allows for coating the product to different thicknesses ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. A thickness of 25 μm is selected to approximate the thickness of an in vivo film. A weight of 960 g is applied to the top of the spreader during coating. The coating speed is set to 1 inch/second, or 2.54 cm/second. The film is dried for 24 hours at room temperature and humidity (50% relative humidity). Protocol for Friction Resistance Testing: Water friction resistance testing is performed by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is performed by applying a damp cloth (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus) containing 400 μL of water to the 25 μm portion of the spreader. A weight of 960 g is applied to the top of the spreader during abrasion. The speed of the spreader is set to 2.54 cm/second. As explained above, the color is measured before and after abrasion using the same spectrophotometric method. To evaluate friction resistance, the "contrast ratio (CR)" is measured before friction (CR dry adhesion, %) and after abrasion (CR friction dry adhesion, %). The loss expressed as a percentage [(CR friction dry adhesion - CR dry adhesion)/CR dry adhesion] * 100 quantifies the loss of coating and indicates the film's resistance to friction. The lower this loss, the more friction-resistant the film is. Th