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JP-7857218-B2 - Use of betaine derivatives as conditioning agents for keratin fibers

JP7857218B2JP 7857218 B2JP7857218 B2JP 7857218B2JP-7857218-B2

Inventors

  • フランシス・ガレ
  • フレディー・ペセル
  • グザヴィエ・ルーセル

Assignees

  • サーファクトグリーン

Dates

Publication Date
20260512
Application Date
20201106
Priority Date
20191122

Claims (9)

  1. A cosmetic method for conditioning keratin fibers, wherein the medium is acceptable as a cosmetic, (a) 15–45% by mass of formula (1): X n- [( CH3 ) 3N + -CH2- COZ -R] n , at least one glycine betaine derivative of n (b) 55–80% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula R-OH, (c) an organic acid of formula XH in an amount of up to 5% by mass , (d) A surfactant composition comprising up to 3% by mass of a glycine betaine salt of formula X n- [( CH3 ) 3N + -CH2 - COOH] n , and (e) up to 15% by mass of at least one dialkyl ether of formula ROR. [In the above formula, Z represents an oxygen atom, R is a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl group containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms, X is an organic anion, and n is equal to 1 or 2.] A method comprising the step of topically applying a cosmetic composition in emulsion form containing a surfactant to keratin fibers, wherein the surfactant composition does not contain alkyl polyglycosides.
  2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the R group is selected from the following groups: myristyl (C14:0), cetyl (C16:0), palmitrail (C16:1), stearyl (C18:0), oleyl (C18:1), linoleyl (C18:2), linolenyl (C18:3), arachidyl (C20:0), arachidonyl (C20:4), behenyl (C22:0), 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl.
  3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the X anion is selected from alkyl sulfate ions, aryl sulfonate ions, or sulfosuccinate ions.
  4. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that X is a methanesulfonate or ethanesulfonate ion.
  5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that R is a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl group containing 18 to 22 carbon atoms.
  6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , characterized in that the keratin fibers are selected from hair, beard, and eyebrows.
  7. The method according to claim 6 , characterized in that the composition is applied to weakened and/or damaged hair.
  8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it aims to improve the combability and/or softness and/or suppleness and/or ease of handling and/or gloss of keratin fibers, and/or to smooth them, and/or to hydrate them and / or to reduce their static electricity.
  9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8 , characterized in that the cosmetic composition is applied to hair that has been washed and rinsed beforehand.

Description

This invention relates to the use of a surfactant composition comprising at least one glycine betaine ester or amide salt containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms as a keratin fiber conditioning agent. The invention also relates to a method for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising the step of topically applying a cosmetic composition in emulsion form, comprising the surfactant composition defined above, to the keratin fibers in a cosmetic-acceptable medium. It is well known that hair, sensitized to varying degrees, particularly damaged and/or brittle, under the influence of surrounding factors, or mechanical and/or chemical treatments such as dyeing, bleaching, and permanent waves, is often difficult to detangle, lacks manageability, and is especially difficult to style and shape. Hair may also lack luster because its surface may be damaged, and therefore light reflection may be more uneven. To overcome these shortcomings, it is common to use hair treatments that can condition the hair. These hair care compositions may be conditioning shampoos or hair conditioners, and they may be in the form of hair gels, lotions, or thick creams containing conditioning agents primarily intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects caused by various treatments or aggressive factors to which hair fibers are repeatedly exposed to to varying degrees. Hair treatment compositions containing cationic polymers and/or cationic surfactants have already been proposed as conditioning agents. These compounds adhere to the hair, enabling improvements in the fiber condition and its cosmetic properties. However, a certain number of these compounds are not entirely environmentally friendly. Therefore, there is a need for the development of cosmetic compositions that are environmentally toxic or non-toxic, and that enable sufficient or superior hair conditioning compared to conventional compositions. The applicant hereby discovers, as expected and surprisingly, that certain glycine betaine derivatives can impart favorable conditioning properties to hair. These compositions, in particular, enable improved detangling and smoothness of hair, as well as its suppleness; hair becomes easier to style, and the hair feels very comfortable and fluid. These compounds can also impart similar properties to other keratin fibers, especially beards. In the field of cosmetics, glycine betaine esters or amide salts, or surfactant compositions containing them, have already been described for their use in deodorants (WO2015/003968) or in acidic aqueous-based foaming shampoos (WO2005/121291). Reference WO2015/078890 further discloses a surfactant composition obtained by reacting glycine betaine with an alcohol of formula R1-OH containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms in the first step, and then reacting it with an alcohol of formula R2-OH having a longer chain in the presence of a sugar hemiacetal. This two-step process yields a complex surfactant composition containing, in addition to the long-chain glycine betaine ester salt, the corresponding ester having a shorter chain containing up to 6 carbon atoms, always in a proportion greater than 15% by mass, and also containing a cationized alkyl polyglycoside. The resulting composition can be used particularly in the preparation of hair care products, especially detangle sprays. WO2015/003968WO2005/121291WO2015/078890 Figure 1 shows the combability of hair strands treated with compositions containing water, a reference surfactant, a mixture of the glycine betaine ester salt according to the present invention, and a mixture of the glycine betaine amide salt according to the present invention.Figure 2 is a graph showing the softness of hair strands treated with compositions containing a reference surfactant, a mixture of glycine betaine ester salts according to the present invention, and a mixture of glycine betaine amide salts according to the present invention, compared to a commercially available hair detangler. The present invention is given purely for illustrative purposes and will be better understood in light of the following embodiments, which are not intended to limit the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. Example 1: Synthesis of a surfactant composition based on glycine betaine ester salt Synthesis of methanesulfonates Glycine betaine (1.0 equivalent) and a mixture of C18-C22 fatty alcohols (1.4 equivalents) are introduced into the reactor. The set temperature of the mixture is set to 170°C and the pressure is reduced to 60 mbar. Once the set pressure and temperature are reached, a 70% methanesulfonic acid solution (1.6 equivalents) is added to the reaction mixture. As soon as the addition is complete, the set temperature is raised to 150°C and the pressure is maintained at 30 mbar. Five hours after the start of acid introduction, the reaction mixture is cooled to 80°C, then the product is collected and cooled to room temperature, and the following components are found: The prese