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US-12616647-B2 - Non-pulverulent antisun composition comprising a polar oil phase and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

US12616647B2US 12616647 B2US12616647 B2US 12616647B2US-12616647-B2

Abstract

The present invention relates to a non-pulverulent composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one oil phase containing: at least one polar oil at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles the said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of non-volatile non-cyclic silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face or the hair, comprising at least the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined above.

Inventors

  • Angelina Roudot
  • Anne Falip
  • Florence L'Alloret

Assignees

  • L'OREAL

Dates

Publication Date
20260505
Application Date
20240201
Priority Date
20120206

Claims (20)

  1. 1 . A non-pulverulent antisun composition consisting essentially of, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one oil phase containing: (i) at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount of 10% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is chosen from caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, octyldodecanol, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate, and mixtures thereof; b) 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one organic lipophilic UV-screening agent, wherein the at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent is chosen from: Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and mixtures thereof; and c) 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; the composition comprising less than 5% by weight of non-volatile non-cyclic silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition; and wherein the composition due to the inclusion of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles exhibits superior sun screening efficacy as compared to composition not containing the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
  2. 2 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobic aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m 2/ g expressed as the volume mean diameter (D [0.5] ), ranging from 1 to 30 μm and/or an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles.
  3. 3 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter, ranging from 5 to 25 μm.
  4. 4 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  5. 5 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tapped density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 .
  6. 6 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2/ cm 3 .
  7. 7 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g.
  8. 8 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the lipophilic organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from: Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  9. 9 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , which comprises at least one additional UV-screening agent chosen from: insoluble organic screening agents, inorganic screening agents, screening agents consisting of composite particles comprising an organic or inorganic matrix and an inorganic UV-screening agent, hydrophilic UV-A and/or UV-B organic screening agents, mixtures thereof.
  10. 10 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , which is in the form of an anhydrous composition.
  11. 11 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , which also comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  12. 12 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is chosen from caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate, and mixtures thereof.
  13. 13 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 12 , wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is chosen from caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, diisopropyl sebacate and 2-octyldodecanol neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  14. 14 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 2 wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter, ranging from 5 to 25 μm.
  15. 15 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 2 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  16. 16 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 3 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
  17. 17 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 2 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tamped density ρ ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 .
  18. 18 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 3 , wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tapped density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 .
  19. 19 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 1 , which further includes a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
  20. 20 . The non-pulverulent antisun composition according to claim 19 , wherein the monoalcohol is selected from the group of ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS This application claims priority to and is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 14/376,687, filed on Aug. 5, 2014, which is a National Stage Entry of PCT/EP2013/051556, filed Jan. 28, 2013, which claims the benefit under 35 U.S.C. § 119(e) of the filing date of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61/599,774, filed on Feb. 16, 2012, and priority to French Application No. 1251073, filed on Feb. 6, 2012, the entirety contents of each are herein incorporated by reference. The present invention relates to a non-pulverulent composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one oil phase containing (i) at least one polar oil,(ii) at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent, b) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, the said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of non-volatile non-cyclic silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face or the hair, comprising at least the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined above. It is known that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, harms the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also liable to bring about a detrimental change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which is reflected by the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin. It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate more deeply into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UV-A rays, even of short duration, under normal conditions can result in damage to elastin and collagen fibres, which is reflected by a modification of the microrelief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation (liver spots, heterogeneity of the complexion). Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date for overcoming the effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic or inorganic UV-screening agents that operate, according to their intrinsic chemical nature and their intrinsic properties, by absorption, reflection or scattering of the UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic screening agents and/or water-soluble UV-screening agents combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Many cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection (UV-A and/or UV-B) of the skin have been provided to date. Formulations that afford users easy application to the skin are most particularly desired. These screening cosmetic compositions must moreover satisfy the regulations as regards the protection factor and especially the European regulations on antisun products, in particular on the protection ratio between UV-B and UV-A radiation and more particularly the SPF/PPD ratio, which must be less than 3. The efficacy of antisun compositions for UV-B protection is generally expressed by the sun protection factor (SPF), which is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythemal threshold with the UV-screening agent to the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythemal threshold without UV-screening agent. This factor thus concerns the efficacy of the protection having a spectrum of biological action centred in the UV-B range and consequently gives an account of the protection with regard to this UV-B radiation. To characterize the protection with regard to UV-A radiation, the PPD (persistent pigment darkening) method, which measures the colour of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure of the skin to UV-A radiation, is particularly recommended and used. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for the UV-A labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued Nov. 21, 1995 and effective as of Jan. 1, 1996). The UV-APPD sun protection factor (UV-Appd PF) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV-A radiation necessary to reach the pigmentation threshold with the UV-screening agent (MPPDp) to the dose of UV-A radiation necessary to reach the pigmentation threshold without UV-screening agent (MPPDnp). UV⁢‐⁢APPD⁢PF=MPPDpMPPDnp It is known that a relatively large amount of UV-screening agents has to be used to achieve a significant level of screening efficacy against UV-A and UV-B radiation. However, these UV-screening agents