US-12616648-B2 - Cosmetic composition

US12616648B2US 12616648 B2US12616648 B2US 12616648B2US-12616648-B2

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is provided, which comprises a carrier and a Patchouli stem extract, in particular an extract from exhausted Patchouli stems. This composition provides anti-oxidant, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronase, and anti-tyrosinase activities.

Inventors

Carole Lambert
Romain Reynaud

Assignees

GIVAUDAN SA

Dates

Publication Date: 20260505
Application Date: 20190408
Priority Date: 20180406

Claims (7)

1 . A cosmetic composition comprising a carrier and at least one active cosmetic ingredient, wherein the at least one active cosmetic ingredient comprises an aqueous extract or an aqueous and alcoholic extract of exhausted Patchouli stems, wherein Patchouli stems comprising essential oil have previously been processed by steam distillation to provide the exhausted Patchouli stems, wherein the exhausted Patchouli stems consist of remains after the essential oil has been removed.
2 . The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin care, scalp care or body care composition.
3 . The cosmetic composition of claim 2 , wherein the cosmetic composition is a serum for dry skin, an anti-aging serum, an anti-aging night or day cream, an anti-dry dandruff product, a dry scalp lotion or is a body care lotion.
4 . The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the aqueous extract or the aqueous and alcoholic extract of exhausted Patchouli stems is odour-free.
5 . A method of preparing an active cosmetic ingredient, comprising the step of: extracting exhausted Patchouli stems using either water or water and alcohol to provide an aqueous extract or an aqueous and alcoholic extract of exhausted Patchouli stems as the active cosmetic ingredient, wherein Patchouli stems comprising essential oil have previously been processed by steam distillation to provide the exhausted Patchouli stems, wherein the exhausted Patchouli stems consist of remains after the essential oil has been removed.
6 . A method of treating human skin, comprising the step of: applying an aqueous extract or an aqueous and alcoholic extract of exhausted Patchouli stems onto human skin, wherein Patchouli stems comprising essential oil have previously been processed by steam distillation to provide the exhausted Patchouli stems, wherein the exhausted Patchouli stems consist of remains after the essential oil has been removed.
7 . A method of stimulating sebum production, of stimulating an antioxidant property and/or of inhibiting wound healing, the method comprising the step of: applying the cosmetic composition of claim 1 to human skin.

Description

This is an application filed under 35 USC 371 based on PCT/EP2019/058826, filed 8 Apr. 2019, which in turn is based on GB 1805780.2, filed 6 Apr. 2018. The present application claims the full priority benefit of these prior applications and herein incorporates by reference the full disclosures of these prior applications. The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a Patchouli stem extract. Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) is a species of plant from the family Lamiaceae, commonly called the “mint” or “deadnettle” family. The plant grows as a bushy herb, with erect stems reaching around 75 cm in height and bearing small, pale pink-white flowers. It is native to tropical regions of Asia. The heavy and strong scent of patchouli has been used for centuries in perfumes and, more recently, in incense, insect repellents, and alternative medicines. Pogostemon cablin, among other members of the Pogostemon genus, is commonly cultivated for its essential oil, known as patchouli oil. Patchouli grows well in warm to tropical climates. The seed-producing flowers are very fragrant and blossom in late fall. The tiny seeds may be harvested for planting, but they are very delicate and easily crushed. Cuttings from the mother plant can also be rooted in water to produce additional plants. Extraction of Patchouli's essential oil is typically achieved by steam distillation of the dried leaves and stems, requiring rupture of its cell walls by steam scalding, light fermentation, or drying. Leaves may be harvested several times a year and, when dried, may be exported for distillation. The main chemical component of patchouli oil is patchoulol, a sesquiterpene alcohol. Other important components include Germacrene-B, and Norpatchoulenol. Overall, around 140 chemicals have been identified in Patchouli (Swamy et al. in Molecules 2015, 20, 8521-8547) including terpenoids, phytosterols, flavonoids, organic acids, lignins, alkaloids, glycosides, alcohols, and aldehydes. The volatiles are mainly composed of patchouli alcohol, α-patchoulene, β-patchoulene, α-bulnesene, seychellene, norpatchoulenol, pogostone, eugenol and pogostol. The non-volatiles include acacetin, apigenin, licochalcone A, ombuin, rhamnetin, retusine, acteoside, agastachoside, isocrenatoside, tilianin, rubusoside, tri- and sesquiterpenes. Patchouli is used widely in fine fragrance and perfumery, and it is an important ingredient in East Asian incense. Patchouli leaves have been used to make an herbal tea. In some cultures, patchouli leaves are eaten as a vegetable or used as a seasoning. Patchouli has also been described as an insect repellent, in against the Formosan subterranean termite. It is an aim of the present invention to add value to the Patchouli stems that have been used for Patchouli oil production. This is achieved by the cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention. In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a carrier and at least one active cosmetic ingredient, wherein a first active cosmetic ingredient comprises a Patchouli stem extract. In contrast to the essential oil obtained by hydrodistillation or steam distillation, the Patchouli stem extract is obtained by extracting the Patchouli stems with a liquid solvent. The Patchouli stem extract of the present invention is fully natural and odour-free. Surprisingly, it was found that the Patchouli stem extract of the present invention possesses impressive skin care and anti-aging properties. In particular, it was found to exhibit antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-tyrosinase activities. Therefore, in a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a skin care composition, in particular an anti-ageing composition. To this end, the carrier should be a dermatologically acceptable carrier. A particularly suitable extract is an aqueous extract of Patchouli stems. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first active cosmetic ingredient comprises an aqueous extract of Patchouli stems. Another particularly suitable extract is an alcoholic extract of Patchouli stems. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first active cosmetic ingredient comprises an alcoholic extract of Patchouli stems. Ethanol is a particularly preferred solvent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the Patchouli stems—and in particular the exhausted Patchouli stems—are extracted with an alcohol-water mixture. Ethanol-water mixtures are especially suitable. The aqueous extract may be obtained by extracting Patchouli stems with pure water. Optionally, the water may contain additives, e.g. for adjusting the pH. Surprisingly, it was found that even the extraction of exhausted Patchouli stems provided an active cosmetic ingredient having the advantageous effects described above. Therefore, in a particular embodiment of the present invention, the first active cosmetic ing