US-12622859-B2 - Organic compounds

Abstract

A cosmetic ingredient comprising crenatoside and acteoside when applied to the skin is useful to provide cosmetic and perfumery benefits.

Inventors

• Fabrice Lefevre
• Daniel Auriol
• Cyrille Jarrin
• Patrick Robe
• Romain Reynaud

Assignees

• GIVAUDAN SA

Dates

Publication Date

20260512

Application Date

20220211

Priority Date

20170404

Claims (17)

1. 1 . A cosmetic ingredient comprising a plant extract which contains at least 15 wt % of a mixture of crenatoside and acetoside, based on the total weight of the dry matter of the plant extract, wherein the plant extract is obtained by a process comprising the steps: I) extracting a plant source containing crenatoside and acteoside in a water-free organic extraction solvent; II) filtering the crude extract to remove solids in order to obtain a filtered extract; III) carrying out a solvent-exchange step comprising mixing the filtered extract with a hydric solvent, and removing the organic extraction solvent by evaporation in order to obtain an extract, wherein the hydric solvent comprises 1,3-propandiol; IV) optionally decolorizing the extract obtained in III) with a decolorizing agent; V) filtering the extract obtained in III) or IV) to remove solids in order to obtain the plant extract; and VI) optionally adjusting the dry matter content of the plant extract in V) by evaporation.
2. 2 . The cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the mixture comprises about 20 wt % to about 60 wt % of crenatoside and about 80 wt % to about 40 wt % of acteoside, based on the total weight of said mixture.
3. 3 . The cosmetic ingredient according to claim 2 , wherein the cosmetic ingredient of the present invention contains at least 15 wt % of each of crenatoside and acteoside, based on the total weight of the dry matter of the plant extract.
4. 4 . The cosmetic ingredient of claim 1 , wherein the water-free organic extraction solvent is ethanol.
5. 5 . The cosmetic ingredient of claim 1 , wherein the hydric solvent further comprises a further hydric solvent which comprises at least two hydroxyl groups.
6. 6 . The cosmetic ingredient of claim 5 , wherein the further hydric solvent is selected from the group consisting of: glycerol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, heptylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
7. 7 . A formulation adapted for topical application to the skin comprising the cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 .
8. 8 . The formulation according to claim 7 , comprising a perfume composition containing at least one perfume ingredient.
9. 9 . The formulation according to claim 7 , selected from the group consisting of: a cosmetic cream, cosmetic lotion, cosmetic body spray, cosmetic serum, a deodorant or antiperspirant, or a fine fragrance.
10. 10 . A deodorant composition or an antiperspirant composition which comprises the cosmetic ingredient of claim 1 , and further wherein the deodorant composition or antiperspirant composition comprises no aluminium salts or zirconium salts.
11. 11 . A topical treatment formulation for application to the skin comprising the cosmetic ingredient of claim 1 .
12. 12 . The topical treatment formulation according to claim 11 , comprising a perfume composition containing at least one perfume ingredient.
13. 13 . The topical treatment formulation according to claim 11 , which is selected from the group consisting of: a cosmetic cream, cosmetic lotion, cosmetic body spray, cosmetic serum, a deodorant or antiperspirant, and a fine fragrance.
14. 14 . A method of modulating the evaporation of a perfume composition applied to the skin, the method comprising the step of: applying simultaneously, sequentially or separately the cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 to the skin.
15. 15 . A method of facilitating the transition from an antiperspirant to a deodorant composition by providing a deodorant composition comprising the cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 .
16. 16 . A method of modulating the evaporation of a perfume composition applied to skin, the method comprising the step of applying simultaneously, sequentially or separately the cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 to the skin.
17. 17 . A method of facilitating the transition from an antiperspirant to a deodorant composition by providing a deodorant composition comprising the cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 .

Description

This is a Continuation application of copending application U.S. Ser. No. 16/493,861, which in turn was an application filed under 35 USC 371 based on PCT/EP2018/058408, filed 3 Apr. 2018, which in turn is based on GB 1705403.2 filed 4 Apr. 2017. The present application claims the full priority benefit of all prior applications and incorporates by reference their full disclosures as if set forth herein. The applicant herein incorporates by reference the sequence listing provided herewith, as an accompanying filed titled “geneseq_ST25”, dated Mar. 24, 2022 9:39 AM, size of 1 KB. No new matter is presented by entry of the foregoing; the sequence listings were present in this application as originally filed and are found herein at page 13. The present invention is concerned with cosmetic ingredients, which may be applied topically to the skin in order to provide beneficial effects related to perfumery or to the preservation of skin beauty over time. The invention is particularly concerned with said cosmetic ingredients that are able to exert beneficial effects by influencing the composition of the skin microbiota. In our 20s, our skin renews itself approximately once every 27 days, whereas in our 50s, this same process takes up to 39 days. In other words, in only a matter of a few decades, our skin needs about 44% more time to renew itself. The skin regeneration process is complex. The process of maintaining skin health and beauty begins with stem cell activation in the basal layer of the skin, upwards through to the superficial layers of the stratum corneum and the stratum microbium. The stratum microbium is a term that refers to the massive amount of beneficial microorganisms that colonize the surface of our skin, and although it is not technically a layer of skin, it does interact symbiotically with the skin to enable individuals to maintain their health on a daily basis. The stratum microbium remains in a state of flux, in which the composition of the resident microflora (or microbiota) changes over time in response to factors both intrinsic and extrinsic to the host. It is now recognized that a healthy, balanced microbiota can provide not only health benefits, but also cosmetic benefits to the human host. There is a need to improve the health and/or appearance of human skin by providing cosmetic ingredients as well as methods of cosmetic intervention that can provide beneficial effects, such as accelerating the skin rejuvenation process, and can deliver targeted biological action holistically from the lower to the higher layers of the epidermis, as well as promote a healthy, balanced microbiota. The applicant has surprisingly discovered a cosmetic ingredient that addresses the deficiencies of the prior art. Accordingly, the invention provides in a first aspect a cosmetic ingredient comprising a mixture of crenatoside and acteoside. In another aspect, the invention provides a method of improving the condition or appearance of human skin, the method comprises the step of topically applying to the skin the cosmetic ingredient. In another aspect, the invention provides a method of balancing the skin microbiota of a human host, the method comprising the step of topically applying to the skin the cosmetic ingredient. In another aspect, the invention provides a formulation suitable for topical application to the skin containing the cosmetic ingredient. These and other aspects of the invention will be further understood in view of the following detailed description of particular embodiments of the invention. The cosmetic ingredient of the present invention may be a plant extract enriched in crenatoside and acteoside. The plant extract may be obtained from plants of the Orobanchaceae family, and more particularly from Orobanche rapum. Although the compounds crenatoside and acteoside are both water-soluble, the applicant found that they were unstable in water. Consequently, the extract is preferably obtained by extracting the compounds from plant material using an alcohol, and more particularly ethanol. It is particularly preferred if the alcohol is water-free. In order to ensure that the extract is stable in terms of both actives' content and colouration, it is desirable that the cosmetic ingredient of the present invention is presented as an extract in a hydric solvent. A hydric solvent, as the term is used in the present invention, refers to a solvent that contains at least two hydroxyl groups. Suitable hydric solvents include glycerol or glycols, such as dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, heptylene glycol, and hexylene glycol. A particularly preferred solvent for use in the extract is 1,3-propanediol. The plant material can be extracted directly using a hydric solvent referred to above. However, it is preferred if an alcohol, such as ethanol, is employed as the extracting medium, and a subsequent solvent-exchange step is carried out to